I watched some special on TV about basement water heaters... it was
amazing to watch footage of the vapors from nearby fuel cans take off...
Apparently... new (self-)regulations in the water heater business
recommends that all water heaters be installed well off the ground...
you can buy some special risers (made for this purpose) or simply create
a rise of some sort... I do not know the specifications of the height...
A gas can... stored open... will leak fumes that travel across the floor
to the waterheater... and it it's a floor based waterheater... it will
ignite...
The demonstration they showed was with a dummy child playing on the
ground... between the fuel source and water heater... it was not
pretty...
Be careful all. If you have an old house... look into these new
procedures!
--Justin
Bob Danielson wrote:
>
> The only advice I'd give is to shut off the furnace and hot water heater. A
> few years ago my "next door" neighbor painted his floor and the hot water
> heater cycled on igniting the fumes (evidently they tend to settle to the
> floor). I'll never forget sitting in the front yard with him watching his
> house burn while waiting for the Fire Dept to arrive. The Fire Dept listed
> the cause of fire to be ignited paint fumes that settled and built up in the
> basement.
> Bob Danielson
> 75 TR6 - status at
> http://pages.cthome.net/BobD
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fred thomas <vafred@erols.com>
> To: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 7:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Painting basement/workshop floors
>
> >
> >Trevor Boicey wrote:
> >>
> >> I am moving into a new house in a few weeks, and am looking
> >> to paint the basement floor to keep dust down and to give
> >> some kind of sealing.
> >>
> >> What should I use to coat the floor with? As well, how much
> >> should I buy for about 1000sq/ft?
> >>
> >> It doesn't have to be SUPER oil tight but I expect to be working
> >> on car parts and other dirties in the workshop, so it would be nice
> >> if it at least was somewhat stain resistant. I am mostly concerned
> >> about dust however, the clean concrete seems to kick up a lot.
> >>
> >> Thanks for any insight.
> >> --
> >> Trevor Boicey, Ottawa, Canada.
> >> tboicey@brit.ca, http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
> >> [ Seeking some miscellaneous MG parts, see the list on the web page... ]
> >
> >Trevor, here in N.Va. we have a cement & foundation speciality store,
> >when I went in to see them they recommended a two part epoxy that is used
> >on commercial floors and also a two part clear after the color. It only
> >comes in a few colors but is just great. Sherwin-Williams paint co. also
> >sells something on the order of this but is not as strong and takes 7
> >days for drying. This paint was 44.00 a gal. 4 years ago, seems like a
> >lot, well if you add what a less quality cheaper do less paint cost and
> >how soon you will do it over, it cost you less in the long run and you
> >receive a lot more benefits. Bright gloss and no stains, just wipe it. I
> >just feel that price should never be mistaken for quality, spend a little
> >more today in order to save for tomorrow. My .02
> >
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