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Re: TR6 Rear Hub Studs

To: suhring@lancnews.infi.net, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: TR6 Rear Hub Studs
From: DANMAS <DANMAS@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 11:22:15 EDT
In a message dated 5/4/98 6:51:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
suhring@lancnews.infi.net writes:

> While replacing some of the older lug nuts on the rear
>  wheel with new chromed nuts, one of the wheel studs came 
>  lose (tightening, it just spun). I assume that the car is
>  still safe to drive while I await the replacement since the
>  other 3 are fine.

Scott,

Unfortunately, your problem may not be the stud - it may be the hole itself.
When a stud turns, it reams out the hole.  If it is not too bad, you can use
one of the stronger grades of loc-tite to fill the hole and prevent the stud
from turning again.  One of the front lugs on my TR6 has been treated thusly.
If the hole has been enlarged too much, you will have to get a stud with a
larger shank.

As for the term "draw" when installing the new stud, just keep in mind that
for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.  As you tighten the
nut on the stud, it moves toward the head of the stud.  At the same time, the
head of the stud tries to move toward the nut.  With the nut tight against the
spacer washers and the hub, turning the nut further will pull the stud through
the hole till it is tight against the hub, and the nut can no longer be
turned.  Just remove the nut and the stud is now installed.

If the stud hole is too large, this technique won't work as the stud just
turns with the nut.  You may have to rig up some type of puller, or slide
hammer, to get the stud installed till the loc-tite sets up.

Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN

'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
                    http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74

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