Bob et al, if you'll recall, the instruction read "must have a coil with
aminimum 1.5 ohms resistance". If the resistance is external to the coil, will
that cause a problem to the Ignitor? How do I measure that resistance if not at
the coil?
I'm electrical dis-advantaged. How do I chek if there's an open circuit drawing
from the battery?
Whew, Jeff
Subject: Re: Ignitr lunchtime update
Author: Bob Lang <LANG@ISIS.MIT.EDU> at SMTP
Date: 3/30/98 2:24 PM
On Mon, 30 Mar 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
> First, I hope I'm not boring you folks with my problem. Here is what I
> found at lunch with the meter.
>
> The battery reads 12.88 volts (non-cranking).
You have a good battery.
> With all the leads to the coil removed, except the spark plug wires,
> and the meter on the negative and positive terminal, there measure
> .001 ohms resistance; virtually none. I was under the assumption my
> '73 had a ballast resistor.
The stock TR6 coil is _externally balasted_ via the wiring harness. So it
sounds like you have the stock coil.
> I checked the voltage from the + side of the coil to the - side of the
> battery with the key on and it was only 6v. Is this a problem?
This is because of the external ballast wire mentioned above.
> Did I fry the Ignitor? Say it ain't so? Or, (hopefully), did my
> battery die coincidentally?
You probably did not fry the Ignitor. It sounds to me like there is a
short somewhere or somehow you connected the Ignitor to an unswitched
circuit (thus explaining the warm coil that you mentioned earlier... the
result of being connected to an unswitched circuit is that you are
putting a load on the battery... even though the switch is off.
> Jeff
> No car, 80 degrees (bummer)
rml
at work... major bummer.
;-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent.
Consultant MIT Computer Services |
Voice: (617)253-7438 FAX: (617)258-9535 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|