Cliff Hansen wrote:
>
> At 04:27 PM 03/19/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >
> >Well, I got the first wheel off that I tried to remove finally.
> >Liquid Wrench penetrating oil seems to have helped or my patience
> >held out better on the 2nd go round. After getting the tire fixed on
> >that wheel I put it back on the car, this is when I noticed that the
> >wheel spun even after pushed onto the hub all the way. Now I assume
> >that this is a baaaaad thing!! I have no idea how long it was driven
> >in this condition.
>
> Yes its a bad thing. See below.
Brad, I agree with Cliff, that's a very bad thing. Probably not driven
that way for very long.
> > I still have one more wheel that doesn't want to come loose.
> >Unfortunately this one is marked left side but its on the right
> >side of the car, so I'm assuming they beat the sh.... out of it to
> >get it to stay on the car. The octogonal knockoff nut is pretty
> >messed up. I can't get the wrench to sit solidly enough to get a
> >good solid whack at it. Since I will have to be replacing this nut
> >anyway, is a long pipe wrench an acceptable tool to use? Or do I
> >need to file the knockoff down to what I can get a better grip?
> >Although I don't know how well it found file down.
> >
> >How much free play should there be when the knockoff is off the car
> >but the wheel is sitting on the hub?
>
> Very little rotating free play.
>
> Check the splines on the hub. They should be flat-topped, not
> saw-toothed. Same is true for the splines inside the center
> part of the wheel. Saw-toothed splines aren't worth having on
> your car, they can be dangerous.
>
> Worn splines will allow the wheel to slip on the hub a little.
> Eventually the splines will round off (probably when under
> hard acceleration or braking) and the wheel will spin on the
> hub, maybe coming off the car.
Speaking from experience, the wire wheels _do_ come off if the splines
and centers get worn to the point that they spin. I wore out my rears,
then switched the spline and wheel to the front. Several days later,
when I hit the brakes hard, off she went!
Though not speaking from personal experience, an adapter and knockoff on
the _wrong_ side of the car will come off, by normal forward motion of
the car. I am _not_ recommending this method to loosen up the knockoff,
however.
Use of a long pipe wrench should be fine, since you plan to replace the
knockoff.
> By the way, when I picked up my current car there was a
> thunking noise from the rear when I applied power. Turned
> out to be a hub extension with worn splines (the wheel was
> still OK.) A good extension cured the noise.
>
> Cliff Hansen
> chansen@exis.net
> 1966 TR-4A CTC 64615L (Anxious to be done with front end work)
--
Keith Edwards (with around 75 car-years of experience with LBC wire
wheels)
Suffolk, Virginia, USA
kedwards@norfolk.infi.net
'62 Triumph TR3B TCF103L former SCCA E/P race car (yellow with blue
stripe)
'62 Triumph TR3B TSF198L unrestored
'67 Triumph TR4A CT72418L "live" rear axle (my first car!)
'67 Triumph TR4A CT70921L "live" rear axle (former parts car)
'54 Austin-Healey 100 (100M?) 151664 very unrestored
'54 Austin Princess Vanden Plas (in need of restoration)
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