On Mon, 16 Mar 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
> My drivers side (LHD) door doesn't stay shut tight after it latches.
> It pops open about 1/4" even though it's still latched.
>
> Also, maybe related, I can feel a slight sag in the hinges if I pull
> up on the exterior door handle.
Make sure the hinges are tight on the "A post" and that the A post is
"rust free". I've had cars that were rotted out at the bottom of the "A
post" that exhibited this behavior.
If all is well with the "A post" and the attaching bolts are tight for
the hinges (you access these bolts with the "kick panel" rug removed)
then either your striker plate is loose or misadjusted or the "B post" is
loose due to rust or other problems. You can loosen the striker plate on
the door or on the "B post".
It could be that the striker plate is too tight and you need to slide it
out toward the outer edge to get a better fit.
The reason I mention the last item is that the latch for the door
actually has to positions: latched and latched tight. Sounds like your
case is that you get the door latched but bot latched tightly...
You need a 1/2 inch wrench for the door alignment, you need a #3 Phillips
screwdriver for the stiker plate screws, as I recall. Those Phillips
fasteners can be a Royal PITA, and I normally use an impact wrench to
loosen them...
>
> How do I adjust the door so that it stays shut tight and flush with
> the front and rear body panels?
Adjust the striker plates as I mentioned above.
Warning: if you loosen the "A post" bolts, be careful that the door does
not move enough in any direction to cause the door to contact the front
fender, or you'll chip your paint there! Been there, done that.
> Domo, domo
Vidi, Vici, Veni!!
> Jeff
> '73 TR6 in MAss.
Mens et manus!
rml
TR6's.
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