My DIY compressor works allright after the 2nd try. The secret is the steel
quality. Make sure its a heavy duty industrial quality. Do not use V2A steel,
because it is too unflexible and tends to break.
Second: Measure the diameter of the top end hole for the shock and distract 2-3
mm for clearance. The result is your required diameter for the threaded rod!
Don't use smaller and cheaper rods!
Third: For the top end of the rod add two big size washers and a fitting roller
bearing in between. They come as a set, and the washers have a groove for the
roller bearing on the inside.
The 2by4 steel at the lower end is ok, the professional solution I saw has a
spacer of a solid aluminum block with the 4 holes for the bolts on the spring
pan.
Cheers
Jan (63 TR4 wired by the works regulars)
Andy schrieb:
>
> About 10 years ago, TRF (if my memory serves me) gave instructions on
> how to build a TR6 spring compressor in one of their newsletters. It just
> used threaded rod, double nuts on top, a piece of 2x4 on the bottom,
> appropriate washers, and a nut on the bottom to crank it up. Rebuilt my front
> suspension with it, couldn't have had more that $10 in it.
> Andy
>
> On 02/28/98 09:56 PM Cliff Hansen said...
> >
> >I spent this last week chasing down material to make a
> >front spring compressor for my TR4A. Essentially I got a
> >piece of grade 5 equivalent 5/8" threaded rod, a steel
> >plate to push up against the spring pan, and some grade
> >5 hex nuts and washers. Cost about $15 total, modeled
> >after TRF's tool.
> >
> >I have just about destroyed this tool removing one spring.
> >Too many threads on the rod are chewed to make me feel
> >confident about using this thing to remove the other spring,
> >let alone install them. I can just see it, I get the other spring
> >pan loose, its coming down, and the nut strips its threads.
> >Now I have to cut a piece of grade 5 steel rod with a 400 lb/inch
> >spring holding the rod in tension.
> >
> >Anybody "been there, done that" with these spring compressors?
> >Should I try to make another using heavier material, or give up
> >and buy the tool from Moss/TRF? If so, which is the better value?
> >
> >Thanks for the advice.
> >
> >Cliff Hansen
> >chansen@exis.net
> >1966 TR-4A CTC 64615L (Anxious to be done with front end work)
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