Thanks for all the replies to my floor jack question. Consensus was that
the Alltrade 3 ton was OK. Went ahead and got it, jacked the car up onto
appropriate jackstands and replaced the axleshaft u-joints.
Got the u-joints through Dick Burger (the British Parts Connection),
arrived in under 48 hours from the Moss warehouse. GKN joints in
Hardy-Spicer boxes. Less than half the $25 that the local parts places want.
No stripped hub threads, but at least I knew to look out for that. looks
like the PO never tightened the nuts on one side where the axle fastens to
the diff: there was about a 1mm gap between the flanges, and the bolts
spun freely. Got all 4 u-joints out and new ones in after grinding down
old needlenose pliers to improvise snap-ring pliers. Also had to slightly
grind my grease gun nozzle to fit between yokes.
Of course, when I ordered parts I didn't even *think* to get new boots for
the sliding joint in the axleshafts. One has a small hole, so I took it to
several parts places to try to find a close match. 2 places refused to
look for a match after coming up blank on their computerized list. One
place searched through a small number of steering rack boots to try to find
something of a similar diameter, with no luck.
Anyone know of a close match from a modern car for TR6 rear axle sliding
joint boot? I'd like to run out and get one so I can put everything back
together. Oh, and what about the inner u-joint "half-boot" I see pictured
in catalogs? Are they really necessary? Never seen one in real life.
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Ted Stevens stevens@erols.com
74 TR6 Gaithersburg, MD
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