In a message dated 2/10/98 2:29:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dirty_howi@hotmail.com writes:
> im
> thinking #2 and 3 but want to be sure before i nuke a brand new battery.
Larry,
At one of the terminals, probably No.2, you should have a fairly large brown
wire. This brown wire should be hot at all times. At another terminal,
probably No. 3, you should have a white wire. Connect these two wires
together to run the car, and disconnect them to shut it off. (If it were me,
I would go to the parts store and buy a heavy duty on-off toggle switch and
connect the wires to it. That would simplify turning the car on and off, and
eliminate a potential hot spot)
At the Starter relay/solenoid, you will find a White/Red and/or a White/Orange
wire attached to one of the smaller terminals. Connect this terminal to the
plus post on the battery to start the car.
That much is straight forward, but there is one item I'm not sure of that will
need to be addressed, and that is the anti-run on valve. If you have one, you
will have to ensure that it is in the "run" condition before trying to start
the car. I don't know if this valve has to be energized or de-energized for
the car to run. If it needs to be de-energized, just leave the Brown/Red wire
at the ignition switch disconnected. If it needs to be energized to run,
connect the Brown/Red wire to the same Brown wire as you connected the White
wire to above.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition, slated for a V8 soon!
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
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