Linda Long (IM) wrote:
>
> Listers,
> The disassembly of my TR250 (affectionately called by my wife: the
> Ferric Oxide Special or FOS for short!)
Now, that's funny.... you're lucky to have a wife with a sense of humor
about British cars.... <smile>
> continues. Encountered two
> "opportunities" this afternoon and would appreciate reports from those
> that have been there, done that and bought the tee-shirt.
>
> 1) I'm removing the screws that attach the body to the frame at the
> floor boards...AKA the four sill mounting areas. Two screw heads are
> badly buggered up so that the 1/2" socket slips off. I've thought of
> drilling them out but fear that once I go down this road I have lost
> other possible solutions. Any ideas? Drill away?
These bolts are roughly grade 5, so the drilling would be
time-consuming, and the likelihood of bunging up the weld nuts or
inserts in the frame is considerable. I have three suggestions for this.
A trick from an old-timer is: get a fresh battery and connect it to the
offensive bolt--negative on one end, and positive on the other, and let
`er rip. Will get the bolt red-hot, cause it to expand, which breaks
some of the rust holding it in place. The other, if there's nothing
flammable in the vicinity, is to heat the bolt with an oxy-acetylene
torch until it's red, and then let it cool. The last, if those
suggestions are impractical, is to find one of the several tools which
act much like a screw extractor--they fit over the bolt head and when
turned counter-clockwise, cause the tool's splines to bite into the bolt
head more fiercely, allowing more grip than with vise grips or similar
tools.
> 2) I removed the door and though I'd never get the checkstrap released.
> Specifically, the little rivet that secures the checkstrap to the door.
> I finally drilled the rivet out from the bottom while standing on my
> head and then used channel locks to squish the drilled out end.
> Luckily, I'm doing a total restoration 'cause I'd hate to use that same
> technique on my TR4 or TR6 if I had to replace the checkstrap on either.
> Any ideas on how to release the checkstrap from the door?
As I recall, the checkstrap has a pin on the a-pillar side. It's a
horrible trick to get at it, but removing that pin allows the strap to
come out with the door.
> BTW..I saw a Land Rover today while out getting donuts. Do owners of
> those things have a BBC? (I think the liquid wrench fumes are getting to
> me!)
Nope, they're WBCs... Weird British Cars.... <g>
Cheers.
--
My other Triumph runs, but....
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