>I will soon be buying sills and floors myself, and am looking forward to the
>list's response on TRF, Moss, VB etc. I also want to know the best ways to
>remove existing rusted, scabby sills and floors - what tools do I use? Should
>I only cut out the bad parts and cut the new ones to fit, or is it better to
>replace the whole shebang? TIA
>Les Landon
>62 TR3B
>
>H! Les,I have just finished pulling RH floor & inner rail from my 62 TR3B,
fitted in nicely,now have pulled LH Side last night.
I brought in new floors,rails,sills from England,made by Rover group,
a little bit of cutting in corners,one floor has cap nuts,the other i
will have to fit my self.
Before sodia blasting the 3B looked ok,but after blasting a different
outlook so the repairs where to great & had a good look & decided out
come the lot.
The first job was to cut off the sills,then halfway along the rail[mid door]
this was cut throught with a small angle grinder,then the A & B post welds
taken off the rail.Next all the spot wells were drilled out,inside & outside
then the bottom of outer body rear of B post was cut on a angle to get at
welding hidden on rail at B post.
The next job was to cut up the floor in bits,tried this with the angle
grinder,wasnt very safe,then i remembered i had some 2 years ago brought
a JET air gun with 5 different chisels,put on air muffs & in no time
the floor was out,the cutter chisel just cut the floor like cutting cheese.
I also had to use my air drill with small grinder to cut weld that is
hidden on B post.
Cleaned all edges with grinder,tried floor in place first,had to push
well forward then bring back to fit under up stand,looked ok,took out
floor & then fitted in rail,held with clamps,checked plenty of
measurements & adjusted as required,fitted floor back in,held with clamps
found ok.Re took out all again,painted all parts with Rustlord,then fitted
rail,with temp tacks with mig 170,fitted door on,door opening ok,off
with door,& then weled in rail,set mig to spot welding 3 second,& welded
through drill holes.welded in floor next,no problems.
The 3B is on a wooden frame,very well supported with braces etc.
During the weekend the R/H rail & floor to be welded in.
Time taken to do the L/H side,start to finish has taken me 26 hours,the
R/H side will take a lot less time.The outer brackets welded to the rails
are not fitted in the right place,i will have to let my suppllier know.
The outer sills will be welded once the body is fitted to chassic & doors
plumed in. My panelbeater has to reweld in the lower outer panel that i
cut off[rear of B post] also bottom of inner guard to rail.
The tools used, 1 air hammer,
2 small cold chisel
3 plenty of small clamps
4 ruler & hammer
5 diegrinder,
6 electric drills
7 tin snips
8 spot punch
9 air compesser
10 mig welder with spot timer & gas
11 plenty of patience
12 angle grinder & plenty of discs
13 rust remover & rust kill. Well thats
all for now,while the body is away at panel & paint shop the
motor & gearbox to be worked on & the fitting of a overdrive
from a Vanguard 6.
Does the tunnel cover have a inspection cover hole to get at o/drive
adjustments,if so can someone send me measuremennts of the hole cover.
many thanks, regards Ashley. New Zealand.
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