> Brian,
> I read with interest your post about TR-7 wheel studs in a Spit.
> Could you give me some more detail on chamfering the end of the studs to
> go in the Spit. rear hub? Which end do you need to chamfer? I had heard
> that you could use TR-7 studs but never looked into it.
> Thanks,
> Bob Harris
>
Bob-
Here's the deal. Slightly chamfer the threaded end of the stud. This
will allow it to fit between the hub and the brake backing plate a
little easier.
Here are some more details of rear stud installation. I published this
about a year and a half ago to the list, so it might sound redundant to
some.
1. Pound out the old studs. Remove them from behind the hub with long
nose pliers. (You can leave all the brake hardware in place if you
wish.)
2. Chamfer about 1.5mm off the edge of the threaded end of the TR7
studs at about 45 degrees.
3. Use pliers to hold new stud behind hub at about 45 degrees to axel
direction.
4. Rotate hub to align hole with threaded end of stud.
5. Straighten stud toward you as you rotate hub so stud aligns with
and penetrates hole.
6. Use good nuts and some spacers to pull stud up tight. You must do
this individually, because unless the stud is seated, the the hub cannot
rotate it past some of the brake hardware. Don't forget to clean and
lube the threads before tightening. If you don't, some of the axial
force of tightening will be lost to thread friction and abuse, and you
may not be able to fully seat the stud home.
New TR7 studs are recommneded. Rears work best. Front TR7 studs are
different.
All caveats apply. If your hubs have worn stud holes, even new studs
may not seat tightly. Remember, your worst nightmare is to attempt to
tighten down your lug nuts when mounting a wheel only to have the stud
rotate in the hub. Bad ju ju.
--
Brian W. Neuschwander
|