Dean Paige wrote:
>
> Vito Pacione wrote:
> >
> > Well,
> >
> > I finally got the first front trunnion together. I used copper non sieze
> > compound, etc.
> >
> > The problem I have is that the trunnion can not be moved by hand. I need a
>12"
> > rod inserted into it and used as a pry bar. They used to move easily by
> > hand when I took them apart even though they were dirty and rusty. I
> > suppose my torque wrench could be off, but it has served me well in the
> > past. The bolt is torqued to 65 ft/lb.
> >
> > The actual symptom is that I can move one of the arms by itself (the one in
> > front). But the trunnion itself seems glued to the other arm. If I rotate
> > the other arm, the trunnion goes with it. If I hold both arms, the only way
> > to move the trunnion is with the pry bar. I could loosen them or I could
> > take it apart and try it again, but unless I do something different, I
> > don't think I'll see any different symptoms.
> >
> > By the way, are there any steering stops for the trunnions that are the
> > right height around? the ones being sold are too short.
>
> If youve torqued the trunion intto its seat you have made a serious
> mistake. These things are supposed to go in a specified number of turns
> only. My TR-6 trunions couldn't be torqued in all the way anyway the turn
> stop prevents it from being tightened. Remember this thing needs to
> rotate.
>
> Deano
Sorry. I reread this and realize my error. You didn't screw up butI don't
recall ever using a torque wrench on the 6 to 8 times I've done trunnions
or bushings on the TR. Just tightened them down snuggly using a nylock or
split nut/cotterpin. Then just checked for play or looseness at
lubrication time.
deano
|