Cregg Cowan wrote:
>
> Worldly Scions,
>
> I am currently working on the rear end of my 71 TR6 (pinion oil seal, diff.
> mounts, and poly bushings for the trailing arms). As I have (too) little
> fear of shipwright's, I'm wondering what else I should do while in here.
>
> A few specific questions follow, but I also solicit general advice.
>
> * rear hubs---the right rear brakes were fouled, apparently with grease.
> The hydraulic
> cylinder isn't leaking (it's only 1 year old and I've been using silicone
> since then). Could the hub have been leaking grease? Seems unlikely, but
> ....
>
> * hub grease fitting---an article in 6 Tech suggests adding a grease
> fitting to the hubs to increase their life span. Anyone have good/bad
> experience with this "improvement?"
>
> * how do I tell if the differential is in good shape. The car has only
> 70,000 miles on the clock, but that is spread over lots of years and some
> of the driving was pretty hard :-)
>
> * sealing the gas tank---I've seen no leaks but do smell fuel for a day or
> so after a fill-up. I've owned this beast for 18 years (and "stored" it in
> my garage for about 8), so I know the tank has had no maintenance/repair.
> Is it on borrowed time?
>
> * the rubber boots on the hand brake cable have disintegrated. Any
> suggestions on making a serviceable boot without replacing the cables?
>
> * should I have the half shafts and drive shafts balanced? This is just a
> driver/beater but I don't mind spending a little money to improve the ride.
>
> * should I bother painting the frame? There are no rust holes in the frame
> (some over the headlight, of course), but surface rust is widespread.
> However, I assume the real rust danger is inside the box beams. I don't
> currently drive on wet days due to a leak around the windshield, but I hope
> to in future (only optimists should own LBC's!)
>
> TIA
> Cregg Cowan
> 71 TR6 CC63192L
> Mountain View, California
Some thoughts:
1) I've sealed my Spitfire tank with the Eastwood's process. All is well a
year later.
Nice thing about the procedure is that it fills in pinholes, and remains
flexible. But
beware tank sealers -- they are not all alike.
2) Diff: have it checked out by an expert.
3) Balancing shafts? Definitely the driveshaft if there is some question.
4) Frame: paint with Corroless (or POR-15) and spray Waxoyl in the boxes.
Corroless
is way easier to use than POR-15, but POR-15 is indestructible.
--
Martin Secrest
73 GT6
74 Spitfire
Arlington, VA
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