Advice is worth what it costs, but having 4 TR6's on the road and
2 more restorations in progress puts me in the position of attempting
to optimize my TR6 repair time/budget.
First time I have clutch problems I do this:
Rebuild the master
(a 1" diameter 3M scratch pad attached to the dremel flex is the
preferred honing tool for aluminum, NOTE: wheel cylinders are best
done "on" the car, I have even done this for the clutch master, but
its a little dicey at best)
Replace the slave (the cast iron seems to attract pits and due
to the increased movement over wheel cylinders seems to be the weak link)
(I have rebuilt ones that look perfect inside, some of these failed...)
Make certain the slave is attached correctly
(NOTE: the new TRF ones can be filed slightly on each ear to fit
through the bracket, I NEVER follow the stupid advice to modifiy
the stock bracket for a mal-formed slave)
Open bleed screw and pump a little to get it flowing. (DOT 5 of course)
NOW for the secret to cure two items
1. you are by yourself
2. the bleed screw isn't in the top of the cylinder, in some
it is impossible to bleed the slave completely via the bleed
(a pea sized air bubble will expand when hot and allow the
clutch engagement point to move floorward as the car temp rises)
Remove the two BRACKET to TRANS bolts and fork pin
Rotate slave vertical
Push the fork downward into the floor or hand cleaner can
Release bleed screw and watch bubbles till they stop
Tighten the bleed screw while liquid is still rushing out
Reconnect fork pin and trans bolts
NOW THE DARN THING IS BLEED, no question about this.
Step two if required is to pull the trans...
Roger
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Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 345-2879
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