Catpusher,
I appreciate your input on the function and installation of the original
mechanical, rear amin seal, and it is correct, however the problem many of
us have is leakers without the time or capability to simply pull the engine
and crank to "adjust" the seal.
During a bottom end bearing replacement (engine in car), I noticed the
inside of my bell housing was pretty oily and the wear on the "ridges" of my
existing rear main seal. (I had the tranny out of my TR3, as I have a TR4
tranny and I had to pull the tranny to get to the rear main.) I confirmed
the wear by buying a new seal and comparing. Not realizing what I was
doing, I unbolted the rear main seal, assuming the new one was a bolt in.
Unfortunately, with the engine in the car, I couldn't pull the crank to
correctly adjust the seal. Now I have a leaker. Not quite as bad as
before, but not oil tight by any stretch of the imagination.
I did check the seal for dimensional correctness and roundness, (Thanks to
Nick in Nor Cal) and did everything possible to insure alignment, but with
the crank in the engine (and the engine in the car) it's all but impossible
to get it right. I shimmed, measured and adjusted for five hours. Without
pulling the crank it just isn't going to happen, something else Nick told me.
I am hoping to build up a high output engine, on another block, in the next
few years, but I would prefer not to have to deal with the leakage until then.
Might you have any suggestions for this situation?
Jack Brooks
TS69032L
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