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Re: Spitfire Rear Suspension - Scary Question

To: msecres@ibm.net
Subject: Re: Spitfire Rear Suspension - Scary Question
From: Joe Curry <curry@wolfenet.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:23:37 -0800
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: Curry Enterprises
References: <v01510101b08e01223728@[204.26.21.91]> <3469174F.13C9@ibm.net>
msecres@ibm.net wrote:
> 
> Joseph Schneider wrote:
> >
> > (snip)
> > any recommendations
> > >on what else I should do "WHILE I'M IN THERE"?
> > >
> > >Dave Moag
> > >77 Spitfire
> > Dave-
> > *if* needed, since the wheels will be off and the shocks disconnected at
> > one end and the spring disconnected from the vertical links, it's probably
> > a good time to do shocks/rear brake and/or trunnion/bushing suspension
> > stuff-
> > the grunt part of the job is done from behind the seats via the little
> > access port to the 4 studs holding the center (pivot stuff) of the spring
> > assembly to the top of the differential housing- I don't know that there's
> > anything else to be done "while you're there" unless you have shipwrights'
> > disease and want to do half shaft u-joints, bearings, etc., but I'm sure
> > some of the Spitfire vets like Barry Schwartz and Andy Mace will have some
> > ideas
> > I found the toughest part of the job (at least two of the nearly 4 hours I
> > spent replacing my rear spring) was getting the studs to rethread in the
> > diff housing, I finally succeeded by using a screwdriver to wedge the
> > spring assembly up off the differetial housing because I thought the
> > locating pin on the bottom of the spring pivot setup that mates with a
> > recess in the differential housing was leaving me with too little play-
> > once I wedged it up a bit so the pin/recess weren't engaged, I was able to
> > get the studs to thread, remove the wedge, and the pin dropped into place-
> > second toughest (much easier than above) was getting the pivot stuff
> > (salvaged from the old spring) in place, you need to compress the spring
> > with a vise or suitable alternative to get the holes in the pivot
> > "shackle", or whatever it's called, to line up with the sleeve so the bolt
> > will pass through
> > wasn't someone (?Barry) going to write this up and post in the tech section
> > of the VTR web page?
> > Joe
> >
> > The flogging will continue until morale improves
> > Joseph R Schneider, MD, PhD
> > Associate Professor of Surgery, Northwestern University Medical School
> > 100 Burch, Evanston Hospital, 2650 Ridge Ave, Evanston, IL 60201
> > voice: (847) 570-2565  fax: (847) 570-2899  e-mail: joe-schneider@nwu.edu
> > world wide web page:  http://pubweb.acns.nwu.edu/~jschneid/JRS.HTML
> 
> Someone should.  "I think I'll throw in a new spring" is a cute thing to say 
>if you've
> never done it!  It is definitely a b*tch, at least the first time.  Yeah, 
>rebolting the
> center cap is the hardest part -- for my two cents, I would say that your 
>life is made
> easier if you MAKE CERTAIN your center housing is centered on the spring 
>itself before
> attempting the rebolt.  Use the horizontal bolt as an eyeball guide, and make 
>sure the
> bottom leaf is centered against the others -- i.e., ascertain that the spring 
>eye gaps
> are equal at both ends!
> 
> Charlie Brown suggested another trick for bolting down the center housing 
>(which I did
> not need to use) -- and that is to find another long bolt the same size as 
>the diff
> studs, file its end to a taper, and use it for locating your bolt-ups.
> 
> In any case, allow some time for the job, and be kinder and gentler while you 
>do it.
> 
> --
> Martin Secrest
> 73 GT6
> 74 Spitfire

I have found that if one removes both axle shafts and then attach the
spring, it is much easier to position the axle shafts on the spring than
to position the spring on the differential.  As long as you are doing
all that other stuff, you may as well remove the axles as well.

Joe (experience is the best teacher) Curry   '63 Spit


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