According to Pertronix, the EI conversion takes an electro-mechanical
switch and replaces it with a transistor. In addition to avoiding
many of the "wear" problems with the bushings, pivot plate, and on
the cam itself, it increases the recharge time for the coil and eliminates
the "spark" loss on the points/condensor circuit.
The end result is a rock solid, accurate, blazing spark. You can see
this yourself with the timing light at idle after the conversion.
You aren't changing to a hotter coil, but you're getting much nearer
to the "ideal" circuit and hence a 10% hotter spark. I run the wider
gap to take advantage of this.
As a point of record, on '73 and earlier cars, I use the Ignitor
and stock coil with NGK BP6ES (or R) plugs gapped at 0.35 with
timing set to 12 BTDC (car dependent as the flywheel marks can slip).
On '74 and later, I tap the white wire tab on the fuse block and
hook up a Lucas Sport coil, so the whole mess is running a constant
12V vs a "tuned" harness... An earlier model stock coil could be
used as well. I see no need for anything more.
On all cars, I plug the retard line at the carb to prevent the "lag"
and wear problems associated with this design afterthought.
The biggest change is the starting, it seems to provide a blazing
spark on the first turn of the engine. It eliminates any missing
at high RPM's and requires NO adjustment.
One other note, the points are VERY tolerant of all sorts of electrical
problems, the Ignitor is NOT. Many Ignitor problems have been traced
to other "electrical" foulups. Once found/fixed, everything worked better!
Roger
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