Eric,
This is "more or less" a copy of the message I posted to Ross quite a
while ago, when I finished the engine. Since this time, I've re-bushed
the dizzy & put the Pertronix ignition in (it's actually for a 1500, but
with a few shims glued to the inside of the rotor magnets, it fit well,
and I had to re-drill the base plate a bit to mount the unit. I like
it, because it's all inside the dizzy, and I get to keep my mechanical
tach!!!), and it runs great. The cooling is solved with a boiled out
block, stock water pump & fan, but a 4-row core on the radiator w/ a
165F thermo. No overheating so far, but it hasn't been road tested
yet. I'll give it the "Central California" heat test some day! I'd
like to go with a hi-perf coil down the road, but that will have to wait
for now. The SU's have been rebuilt & re-shafted, as yours have been.
What you've got sounds great - keep us posted on your progress. Mine's
kinda a long term "LKDB" (let's keep Dad busy!) project, so I hope you
can be on the road soon!
A summary of work I had done on the 1147 block:
- Bored engine to 0.040" over.
- Crank ground to 0.010" under.
- New main bearings.
- New pistons & rings.
- New conrod bearings & bushings.
- Line bored block.
- Decked block slightly to line up with crank line (so no large
compression differences from different pistons heights from cylinder to
cylinder).
- Cam re-ground (0.270" lift, and about 292 degrees duration).
- New lifters (yes, they are available - check with Rimmer Bros., I
believe they have them - you have to ask).
- New rear seal from a 1500 - need new plate, and need to have the
"threaded/scroll grooves" on the crank area spray-welded, ground and
polished, therefore I can fit the 1500 crank seal on. Really Cool!
- 1500 flywheel fitted with 7 1/4" clutch disk - re-drill the threaded
crank holes out and tap to accept the larger flywheel bolts. You will
need to get a friction shop to assemble one good clutch disk from two
old ones, one a MK I, and the other from a 1500. Use the inner part of
the MK I (with the correct spline pattern to match the input shaft on
your tranny, and use the 7 1/4" outside part for the facings to match
your flywheel. I'm amazed it went together so well. I believe it was
about $40 for the disk work. BTW, use the later pressure plate, with
the later throw-out bearing, and it should bolt together real well.
- Pinned thrust bearings, so they don't "spin", with about 0.004" of
crank play. Good for the stronger springs on the later model clutch.
Now, for the head work:
- Ported and polished, with ports opened to match intake & exhaust
manifolds. I removed the "alignment sleeves" from the intake manifold,
and drilled the face of the manifold, to match pins in the head to allow
precise alignment. I beleive the competition preparation handbook
covers this procedure.
- Bronze valve guides, with exhaust valves from a 1500. Differences
are negligible.
- End rocker arm pedestals from a MK III (more beef & stronger for
higher RPM's)
- New rocker shaft with machined spacers instead of springs.
- Dual valve springs from a 1500 (just in case...)
- Head cc'd, and calculated out to about 9.6/1 compression.
Entire mess balanced. Cost, about $1700. Too much, yes. Would I do it
again? YOU BET! Runs real smooooth, too!
Eric C. Rupert wrote:
>
> Pete:
>
> I just finished a 1147 build (actually all I did was write the check!). What
> goodies are you putting in? I had mine punched out .020 and added
> high-compression pistons and heavy-duty valve springs. Also, had the cam
> re-ground with a "street-performance" grind. SU's bored and the oversize
> shafts installed to snug things up.
> Haven't done anything on the ignition side except a nice, tight distributor.
> Have been thinking of the Crane/Allison ignition, 70Kva Coil and high-perf
> wires. Anything else I can do w/o a major cost? I am thinking of going to an
> electric fan but I had fair to poor results on my '71 Volvo which I had in
> high-school. Didn't seem to push enough air. In stock form, the Spit NEVER
> overheats and I am not sure I want to chance it.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Ficklin [SMTP:pficklin@qnis.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 29, 1997 6:13 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net; lewis mckillop
> Subject: Re: spit engine swap?
>
> Barry Schwartz wrote:
> <snip>
> A really good swap (in my opinion) is one that can be converted back to
> the
> original condition if it was desired to do so, as well as looking like
> it
> was made from the factory that way.
> <un-snip>
>
> Lewis,
> I second Barry's opinion here. You can go a long way to get more HP
> out of the 1300 as reccommend earlier. I've got a '64 with the original
> 1147 hopped up suitably, although it's not at the point where it can be
> road tested yet. Get Ross Vincenti to give you some of his driver's
> reports. Judging by your e-mail address, I guess you to be in the south
> central valley of California. If so, I know someone you need to talk to
> in Fresno who's done a lot of early Spit work. Bottom line, it's your
> car, build it the way you want. Good luck!
>
> Peter Ficklin
> '64 Spit
> '68 Spit
Best of luck...
Peter Ficklin
'64 Spit
'68 Spit
-----------------------
Eric C. Rupert wrote:
I just finished a 1147 build (actually all I did was write the check!).
What goodies are you putting in? I had mine punched out .020 and added
high-compression pistons and heavy-duty valve springs. Also, had the
cam re-ground with a "street-performance" grind. SU's bored and the
oversize shafts installed to snug things up. Haven't done anything on
the ignition side except a nice, tight distributor.
Have been thinking of the Crane/Allison ignition, 70Kva Coil and
high-perf wires. Anything else I can do w/o a major cost? I am
thinking of going to an electric fan but I had fair to poor results on
my '71 Volvo which I had in high-school. Didn't seem to push enough
air. In stock form, the Spit NEVER overheats and I am not sure I want
to chance it.
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