I've replaced the seals on 5 differentials. The first 4 were early ones so
the collapsible spacer of the later TR6 units was not a problem. Tightened
them down as tight as I could. The early units use shims to get the
preload correct, so the correct preload is easy to duplicate if tightened
enough. I forgot the "mark it first" advice on the '76 TR6 and took it
apart then went to the books. I tightened it up as best I could. This car
now leaks from the seal again and has a whine (2, including me). As far as
the axle seals go, I've had good success with brining the stub axles to a
truck machine shop to press them off. I screwed up the first one I tried on
my own. On the '76, I hooked up my biggest 4 leg puller to the flange with
the stub axles still attached to the diff unit, and tightened it down, I
then heavily tapped the end of the center locating rod. Both sides came
apart. (I tried this with the diff in the car but there wasn't enough room
to strike the puller nut. It might be a bad idea to be hitting the axle
while in the diff, but it worked.
Bob Kramer, Austin TX
Hill Country Triumph Club
TR6x3, TR250 x3, TR3A vintage race
rgk@flash.net
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> From: DUHART JOHN <duhart@symbol.com>
> To: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>
> Cc: "'TR6 List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: tr6 diff seals
> Date: Thursday, September 25, 1997 1:40 PM
>
> Hey All,
>
> OK let me tell you my tale of diff seals replacement. I'm rebuilding my
> TR6, and I have a leak from one of the inner axle seals of the diff. I
> figured I would replace all the seals while I had the diff out, since
> they were inexpensive parts.
>
> I found that you cannot replace the inner axle seals with a hydraulic
> press of some type. Getting the inner axles out of the diff is easy
> enough, and getting the big nut that hold the yoke/flang (whatever the
> correct term is?) is also easy, but getting the inner axle shaft to
> separate from the flang was not possible with a gear puller. I gave up,
> since I didn't want to damage the inner axles.
>
> The pinion is another story. I remove the big nut (lots of effort), and
> the pinion flang just slide right off. But I couldn't tell where the
> seal was. I asked the NET for advice and they assured me the seal was
> there,a nd that I must be staring at it and not realizing it. I gave the
> guys a Motorhead a call, and asked for advice. The guy there told me the
> first step is to mark the big nut of the pinion so that I tighten down to
> the exact spot upon reassembly to get the correct pinion end-float I
> believe, Well TO LATE, I had already remove the nut. With that bridge
> cross I asked him what to do about the seal. The seal has a metal outer
> casing. He told me the best way to remove the old seal is to destroy it.
> By clipping off a piece of the seal and then heating it a bit I was able
> to bend it enough so that it could be removed. I oiled up the new seal
> by soaking it in gear-oil for a day and then tapped it into place.
>
> Now as far as putting back the pinion-flang and big nut, the NET advised
> that I should just tighten that puppy down as hard as I could. A number
> of people claimed to be riding on diffs they had done this to. It made
> some sense to me since it took all my body weight just to get the nut
> off, that I should use all my body weight to get it back on.
>
> The diff is back on the frame now, and the wheels are on the cars. I
> can spin the wheels without any noise from the diff. However I won't
> have the car back on the road until spring 98 (oh please oh please) so I
> can't report on what happened after I drove the dreaded first 25 miles.
>
> I rebuiltd diff runs $850 at TRF. Get it during a 30% sale and it will
> be about $600. Replace the seals and take a chance and you'll be about
> about an extra $20 for the seals.
>
> I can tell you that for the first few weeks/months I will be listening
> to the diff for any bad noises, and keeping my fingers crossed that i
> haven't screwed anything up.
>
> Later,
> JHD IV
>
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