Maybe I missed something here.
If I understand the issue correctly, the idea is that due to a worn
rocker shaft/rocker bushes there will be enough oil leakage at the back
of the valve train (where the oil passage to the rockershaft is) that
the front rockers are probably not getting enough oil? And that the
cure is to add the additional line to get more oil, also to the back of
the head?
By some perversity of materials science, apparently the rockershaft
(steel) wears faster than the rocker bushings (bronze). I've been
assured by a friend in the know that if the wear in the valvetrain is
not too extreme, fitting a new rockershaft (approx $30 for the Spitfire)
should reduce most of the free play. Better solution than dumping more
oil in the wrong place!
Because I know that as enthusiasts we are all changing our oil
frequently with quality oil (your own choice, I'm not going there!), and
we are taking care to get the engines up to temp before showing off.
ps. so far the postings I've seen say that the Spitfires don't have as
many problems. I think my race motor may have too much oil up top (yes,
85-95 lbs at speed!) already, but the street car.....
Jim
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From: triumphs-owner
To: JGAMBO01
Subject: To all "chevy mechanics" concerning top
Date: Tuesday, September 09, 1997 2:23PM
Enough shit already guys.
Dave terrick here with nomex on - I'm racing this weekend, I dont care
about no stinkin' flames.
IM (not so)HO, rocker feed kits are a preventative measure, not a
panacea.
If your car puffs now without the kit,it's already too late and yes,
the
kit will increase puffing. Why you ask?
You've already worn your valve guides to at least twice their spec and
the
spec was generous to start. Your oil pressure will be a bit low since
the
shaft is already grooved allowing much greater clearance. Now, you have
a
limited oil flow going into a much larger hole than designed and how
much
of that oil do you think will get to the <front> of the rocker train?
Ya,
it's probably dry right now.
Take the head off, replace the guides with silicone bronze spec
("competition" option), change the worn valves (likely due anyway),
valve
springs and keepers, rocker shaft and rockers. It's all shot or on its
way
out if your car has more than about 60 k miles unless you are really
lucky.
Now that you've spent several hundred dollars on the top end where your
power is made in a TR anyway, you may want to protect your investment.
Now spend $50 on a kit and no, there will be no smoke if all was done
right.
FYI, my wrecker motor in my vintage racer, feed kit in, smokes less
than
most '6's on the road and I have done absolutely nothing except put the
feed kit on. Yes, the rockers are in good shape. no I don't know the
mileage, maybe 38k like the speedo said. 165 comp across the board and
it
will kick any TR6 in a straight line and around the corners.
Finally, a word of advice to those who "trust" the local engine
builder.....
With all due respect, most of the builders today were taught on sm
block
chevys, of which there are - maybe - a few million in circulation. You
can
buy rebuilt heads for less than rocker gear on a TR. You can spend $50
on
reading materials and know almost as much as the guy in the back
(earning
$10/hr or so who is actually doing your work, not the master
machinist/mechanic shop owner) about a chevy, just try that with a TR.
Finally, who here has ever seen a full size chevy smoking under
acceleration or idle? Are these the people you want to listen to?
Please ensure if your builder tells you something isn't necessary, ask
questions! I agree it <shouldn't> be necessary but the facts are
different. We know this. Just like a rings and bearings engine job IS
NOT
a "re-manufacture", neither is a rocker feed kit a head job. On the
other
hand, given the choice of surely grinding the valve gear away or
putting
up with a bit more smoke, you know which one I've chosen.
Oh ya, another slant on the issue...... are your plugs oil fouled? If
they are before you use the kit, then you have a problem anyway. If
the
kit causes <one or two> cylinders to foul, you have a problem. If the
kit
causes global fouling then you should start saving a couple grand, plus
$50
for a kit once the mill is remanufactured.
respectfully,
Dave Terrick
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