I sent this in a couple of days ago, but a clarification is required. My
horror story on the rear axle does not apply to TR4As with IRS. They have
studs similar to the front axle, with splines, not a double thread with a
shoulder. Thanks to Chris Lillja for helping figure this out.
Alan Crane
>My recollection from a couple of years ago when I switched from wire wheels
to alloys on my TR4A is that the job is a lot tougher than you might hear
from various places such as the Moss catalog. The front wheels aren't too
bad, tho you may have to remove the brake disk from the hub if you are using
the longer bolts for the solid wheels. If you have to replace the disks
anyway, that doesn't matter. Also grease the bearings while they are off.
These studs are splined, and yes you tap them out.
>
>The rear wheels are a different story. The studs screw into the hubs. Mine
were also peened on the inside to make sure they didn't come out. It really
works. I didn't realize the problem at first and messed the hub up. I
screwed a couple of jam nuts onto the stud and used a wrench on them to
force the stud out. This dragged the expanded end thru the threaded hole,
which didn't leave much of the threads. Once started, I had to finish, and
I couldn't see any other way to get them out, tho later I found that it is
not all that difficult to remove the hub. Even with it off, however, it
would be difficult to grind off the expanded end. Anyway, my solution to the
damaged hubs was to drill them out with a special drill and use helicoils,
available from good auto parts stores. This has worked quite well. No
problems despite hard driving and autocrossing.
>
>My recommendation is to not change the studs unless they look really bad,
i.e., significant damage to the threads or the shaft. They don't really
take much force axially (on hard turns the car is pushing into the outer
wheels and the only tension on the studs is from pulling on the inner wheels
which carry little force). Acceleration and braking cause shearing forces,
but any half way decent stud should be strong enough to handle that.
>
>Alan Crane
>67 TR4A
>
>
>>I'm replacing my lug nuts and thought I'd replace the bolts also. 2
>>quickies....
>>
>>First, can the bolts be tapped out with a hammer and can they be tapped in
>>with the same hammer!
>>
>>Seconds, the price Moss quotes is 4.50 and 3.80, depending on front or
>>back. Is there a less expensive source?( I know Dick Berger will beat the
>>Moss list...)
>>Doug Mathews
>>Weekdays Voice: 706-542-6820 FAX: 706-542-6881
>>64TR4 TC38798L(in restoration)
>>63TR3B TCF1520L(Driver)
>>59TR3A TS6140L(Parts creature)
>>57TR3 TS18791LO(Parts creature)
>>
>
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