Scott and Steve:
I guess you're like me, tired of having my turn signals fail every time I use
my hazard flasher. This is a common problem with both the early TR6 and the
MGBs, and, I suspect, with other British cars as well. If the turn signals
don’t work, odds are that the hazard switch is the problem. Usually, it can
be cured by snapping the hazard switch on and off a few times, but sometimes
it requires removal and cleaning of the hazard switch. Either way is a pain.
I cured the problem once and for all in my ’71 TR6. It is an extremely simple
fix, and only slightly compromises originality. Here’s how to do it:
1. Purchase a dpdt (double pole, double throw) toggle switch from Radio
Shack or other electrical supply house, rated for 10 amp or better. If you
buy one from an automotive store, make sure it does NOT have a center off
position, as do most switches sold there. If you should use a switch with a
center off position, in the center position neither the turn signals nor the
hazard flasher will work. This is more of a nuisance than a real problem.
2. Find a suitable location for the switch. I recommend hiding it under the
dash where it can be easily reached but out of sight. Of course, this is a
personal choice, and if many people drive your car, you might want it in
plain view, and maybe even labeled. One good method of mounting it is to take
a strip of stiff sheet metal, about 3/4" wide, bent into an "L" shape. Before
bending, drill a hole in one end for the switch, and a smaller hole in the
other for a small sheet metal screw. Usually, you will find a hole in the
turned under portion of the metal dash backing, and can just fasten the
switch here. If not, drill a small hole where it is convenient, and mount the
switch there. This puts the switch out of sight, yet it is easy to find when
you need it.
3. Remove the wires from the existing hazard switch. Leave the switch in
place for appearance sake. Other wise, you will be faced with the task of
filling the hole. The easiest way to access the switch is by removing the
tachometer. Be sure to disconnect the ground lead from the battery before
doing any work under the dash.
4. Attach extension wires to the existing wires, long enough to reach your
new switch. I recommend cutting the terminals from the existing wires, solder
the extension wires and insulate the connections with heat shrink tubing.
However, if you wish to maintain the option of returning your car to stock
sometime in the future, you might choose to use male spade connectors
instead. Just be sure to insulate them well.
5. Attach the extension wires to the new switch as shown in the diagram
below. It doesn’t matter which way the switch is orientated, nor which LG/N
wire goes to which terminal. As long as the switch looks like that shown, it
will be right.
6. Insulate the unused terminals. Under certain conditions, these terminals
can have 12v on them.
____________
Purple ------o------- | X X |
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Purple/Red---o----| X X |----------o------------Light
Green/Brown
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|__X_____ X _|----------o-----------Light
Green/Brown
The above diagram shows the back side of the switch, and the X's indicate
terminals. The dotted lines are the wires, with the o's indicating splices to
the original wires.
This switch will now take the place of the existing switch, and works exactly
the same way. In one position, the turn signals work as normal, and in the
other, the hazard flasher is operating. When you mount the switch, it's your
preference which way is on. If you want the hazard flasher to be operating
when the switch is in the UP position, just turn it till it is correct.
This modification solved the problem very nicely for the TR6. The only
problem I have now is, I keep operating the switch just to see how nice it
works!
PS: if the diagram doesn't come through well enough, let me know and I will
send JPG file.
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