Welcome to the list,
I have just finished a full body off restoration of my TR4A. The body is in
final paint
stages as we speak. You are correct that the body basically bolts together
with
one exception. The basic body shell consists of the inner fenders,
valances, floors,
and the rear H deck. outer fenders, hood, trunk and doors are the only
"bolt" together
panels. You remove the outer panels and then lift the body off the frame
after removing
the 14 (??) bolts that fasten it to the frame. The welded front valance is
factory and correct.
You are right, the rear section is not correct. There should be gaps
between the H deck
panels. Your neighbor is correct that it might be easiest to use the rear
section from
your parts car. If you are really good and resourceful, it might be
possible to drill out the
spot welds in the rear of the floorboards, inner and outer rockers and B
post and separate the
rear from the front shell. If you can remove the parts car rear section in
the same manner
it would be relatively easy to weld back together.......
One thought..... many Triumphs have died when their owners have tried to
disassemble the
shell and were unsuccessful in keeping everything aligned. Take a good look
at the next car show
you attend and you will see what I mean. Look at "restored" cars and then
look at the gaps of an
"original" car. TR4s were never built to Mercedes standards, but they were
not as bad as many of the
cars you see that are now restored.
Many people recommend that you do all welding with the car on the frame to
keep everything aligned and straight.
What I did was probably not the correct method, but it worked great. I
built a wooden frame by measuring the mounting
points of the metal frame. Once I removed the body, it was relatively easy
to keep the body straight as
I drilled out the spot welds. If you have to replace the floorboards,
remove one at a time. Many people
need outer rockers, inner rockers and floor boards. These parts all make up
the strength of the
TR body shell. If you cut the car in half, the door alignment and
fender/door gaps are often impossible
to ever get right. I welded in my floors, rocker and inner rocker one side
at a time. I riveted in everything
to get the panels aligned properly. This means re-hanging the fenders and
doors to make sure you have
B post in the correct place on the rocker. If you are only replacing the
rear clip, you may be able to
remove the entire piece. After you fasten the rear clip to the front clip,
make sure to rehang the doors and
rear fenders to confirm the placement, prior to welding the shell back
together.
Good luck and let us know how you make out...
Dave Herr
73 Stag
65 TR4A
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> From: Ct54531@aol.com
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: TR4A restoration
> Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 1:48 PM
>
> Hello:
>
> I am somewhat new to the list having been directed here by the very
gracious
> Art Kelly. I have a 1965 TR4A - CT54531L (hence the name) sitting in my
> garage and I am finally getting around to finishing a restoration started
by
> a PO in the late seventies and early eighties (Car purchased in 1981 or
82).
> Mechanically, the car is in good shape - very strong engine (at least the
> last time I ran it several years ago).
> My questions are - at this stage - more in the realm of body work about
which
> I know nothing. I am fortunate, however, to have a neighbor who is a true
> expert on restoration and welding, etc. and who is intrigued by this
project.
> (He has 1937 Fords etc which he does all the body work on himself.)
> I am happy to say that the frame is essentially rust free. I am not as
happy
> to say that the body is also rust free but it is - thanks to an
apparently
> enormous amount of bondo or something similar in the rear at least.
> The front is pretty good but I started to remove the body work for
> re-painting and some spot rust treatment and I only got as far as the
grille
> removed. When I tried to get the "upper valance" off, I found it was
welded
> to two small tab-like projections on the inner fenders on each side (one
on
> each side actually).
> First question - I had thought that Triumph bodies were basically bolted
on.
> Are there a lot of welded points throughout? Is this something the PO
did?
> Second question. As I said the rear is full of bondo - whether from rust
or I
> don't know but there seem to be no structural problems of any kind. The
rear
> is even "customized" in a way. The body work is all smoothed out with no
> seams, no beading and the tops of the rear fenders slope and curve
downward
> as it flows back. (This is not a surprise to me - I knew it when I
bought it
> but this is what I most wanted to restore.) I have a donor car in the
next
> stall with the rear sections in excellent condition. Here's the inquiry.
My
> neighbor suggests that we cut the whole rear sections out in one piece
and
> switch them. That is, we take the respective rear 1/2 to 1/3 off the
frames
> by cutting all as one piece including the floor from in front of the rear
> "seat" and up just behind the striker/door posts. Does this sound viable?
Is
> there a better place to cut? We will then place the donor section - boot
and
> all - inside and out - all in one section - on the recipient frame.
Comments?
> While I'm on, a couple of other smaller questions.
> The original paint was 19 - Piggot says this is "New White". What is the
> present day equivalent of that color and where does one get it?
> There is a plastic in-line fuel filter just before the fuel line gets to
the
> carburetors. Is this standard? I have owned Triumphs in the past and
don't
> rememeber any fuel filter other than the glass bowl at the fuel pump.
Also,
> the pictures in "Original TR" don't show one - not there anyway.
> There's no doubt this won't be my last question. I've already learned -
and
> put to use - a lot of things I've picked up from the list. This is great.
> Thanks in advance.
>
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