Ken-
Having actual repair cases difficult for problems like this
is a very good idea. Thanks for doing this.
Thank you all for the excellent advice,
-Steve
Ken Streeter wrote:
>
> Steve,
>
> If you can put the suggestions you received together into
> a summary article and send it along to me, I will be very glad
> to format it into HTML and put it on the VTR WWW pages.
>
===================================================================
From: SBoz39@aol.com
I found that with the front end of the car up on jackstands I could
reach the release with a broom handle cut to length from below the
engine and
the front right tire.
Of course, it stuck at the VTR national convention held in Seattle
(was
anyone on the list there?) just after pulling everything out of the
engine
compartment, and everything out of the interior except the dash and
having it
all painted and then put back together just in time for the show. I had
the
cleanest looking engine compartment at the show that nobody could see.
(Naturally, I figured the broomstick trick out after I got home.)
==
Jim Bosley
From: lgmiceli@juno.com (Lawrence G Miceli)
Steve,
Try once more before taking everything apart, but this time remove the
nut that holds the cable onto the bulkhead fitting so the whole thing
(inner and outer cable) moves. Then when it "stretches" pull a little
more. Probably what has happened is that the pinch fitting holding the
outer sheath has come lose. If you can pull a little more the latch WILL
pop open. This was a common occurrence on my old '74 TR6 until I replace
the .30 cent clip.
Larry Miceli
'76 TR6
'73 Stag
'66 Herald
==
From: Robert J Carley <rcarley@uoguelph.ca>
Hi. I had to open my hood from inside the car last winter. Not an easy
job, but not impossible if you do it methodically. You have to remove
the
glove box, the metal brace under it, and some of the heater hot air
hoses
to get at a hole through which you can insert upwards a long screwdriver
or similar object.
It's difficult to see what you are doing, both when you are
disassembling
the under dash components, and then when you are trying to pry the hood
latch open with the screwdriver. You have to visualize the operation of
the hood latch i.e., in which direction it pulls to free the hood catch.
You also have to be careful with the screwdriver or pry bar, as you are
close to the battery connection - I kept hitting the battery cable,
causing sparks which worried me. If something started to burn, I
couldn't get the hood open to put it out. So, be very careful when you
are poking around the hood latch from through the hole in the firewall
while lying on your back in extreme discomfort. Other than that, it's a
fun way to spend a few hours!
Good luck
+++++++++++++++++++++++
Robert J. Carley, Ph.D.
Office of Open Learning
Johnston Hall
University of Guelph
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
N1G 2W1
PH: 519 824-4120, 6387
FX: 519 824-1112
EM: rcarley@uoguelph.ca
+++++++++++++++++++++++
==
From: ingate@shiseis.com (Shane F. Ingate)
Steve,
Before you dismantle anything, ask someone to push
down on the bonnet near the latch area; this will remove any
"reload" on the mechanism which may be you problem.
Good luck!
Shane Ingate in San Diego
==
From:Jamie Barnhardt <innovative@ccsinc.com>
Dear Steve,
I run into this variation of " The retched stuck Bonnet" from time to
time. You are lucky. Have someone place a good bit of tension on the
pull handle while you press down on the bonnet where the latch is. Be
careful and be sure to press the bonnet as close to the edge as possible
to avoid the common dent in this area. The problem that you are having
comes from improper bump adjustment, over adjustment of the latch pin,
or as in most cases, lack of latch lubrication. Good Luck my friend.
Jamie
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