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Pulling a tranny

To: Jack I Brooks <jibrooks@juno.com>
Subject: Pulling a tranny
From: Henry Frye <thefryes@iconn.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 08:49:21 -0400
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: TTC
Snip
> Basically, I AM LOOKING FOR SOME HELPFUL HINTS and reassurances that I am
> not getting in over my head.  The list helped me get started on the
> bottom end, and that turned out to be almost a piece of cake.  Please
> tell me tranny/flywheel removal/replacement will be as easy.
> Jack Brooks


Jack,

The big quesion in the 'pain in the butt' level is whether or not you
have the interior in the car, and how easy it will be for you to pull
the interior. Did the DPO glue the carpets? The tranny comes out up thru
the interior of the car, as a frame member is in the way for the tranny
to drop out the bottom. (I am pretty sure on this, I havn't pulled the
tranny on the '3B, but the '250 went that way.)

As far as how complicated a process the whole thing is, I would have to
say if you felt the 'in car' lower end rebuild was easy, you will have
no problem with this one.

The throwout bearing, shaft, etc will come out with the tranny. The
pressure plate and friction plate is bolted to the flywheel. Because of
the problem you are having with the rear bearing cap, the flywheel has
to come off to get the clearance you need. I have never pulled a
flywheel with an engine in in the car, but it should not be a major
problem. Cramped, but doable.

Once you have completed your bearing job, refit the flywheel. Then, the
new pressure and friction plates. (I am not sure if a pilot bush is
used. A good question for the list...) It is imperative you align the
friction plate exactly as you bolt on the pressure plate. Buy the very
cheap clutch alignment tool. I have eyeballed many a clutch, (when I was
young and even more stupid  ;-))but only when the engine is on the floor
in front of me, not when the engine is in place.

Once you have the new parts on the flywheel, fit your new t/o bearing,
grease the shaft the t/o bearing rides on and refit the tranny. 

Take the time to closely inspect all the little parts related to clutch
operating shaft, especially the little pin that holds the fork to the
shaft. Replacing these parts now will save you having to do this again
in a few years!

It may sound tough, but you will be able to do a much better job
yourself. A shop will _not_ take your tranny out, inspect all the little
parts, and put your car aside when it is discovered you need a little
thingamabob. Especially when the little thingamabob will not be
delivered by the NAPA guy within an hour! If your thingamabob is
serviceable, it goes back in, whether it has a one year failure
expectancy or a ten year failure expectancy. If you do the job yourself,
you will know it was done right, and you will have the confidence of
knowing the clutch is 100%.

C'mon Jack, go for it!
-- 
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| Henry Frye                          E-mail thefryes@iconn.net |
| TR3B   TCF1927 L               http://www.iconn.net/thefryes/ |
| TR250  CD8096 L                              A Little Town In |
| TR250  CD1074 L                              Connecticut, USA |
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