[BOUNCE triumphs@Autox.Team.Net: Non-member submission from [Mike Ginter SA
<mike@redline.stortek.com>]]
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 08:32:52 -0700
From: Mike Ginter SA <mike@redline.stortek.com>
Subject: Re: Elect. tach. vs. mech.
While we're on the subject, my electronic tach reads 10K over at idle, (1800
to 2000 rpm) and approximately 10K under at seemingly peak torque (4000 rpm ?).
I've never run the thing over what the tach says is 4500 rpm, because at that
point, the engine doesn't seem to have anything left.
Occasionally upon engine startup, the tach reads normal at idle (800 rpm) until
the throttle is punched up to approx. 1500 rpm. At this point it returns to
10K overage and stays there for the duration of the drive.
I had only seen it behave normally at idle once before I put in a new
distributor cap and rotor. Now it is normal almost every time I first start
the car, until I give it some gas, and then it returns to the aforementioned
behavior.
Can someone explain to me the theory of electronic tach operation and all of
the components involved so I may begin to troubleshoot this problem without
having to buy all new parts in a process of elimination?
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike
79 Spit
> From: Bschwartz@encad.com (Barry Schwartz)
> Subject: Elect. tach. vs. mech.
> Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 07:18:05 -0800
>
> Ross,
> There is no way I know of to use the mech tach on a non-mech distributor.
> Short of rigging some sort of crank attachment with a 2/1 reduction. The
> electronic tachs look slightly different than the mechaniclal ones, bezels
> are a chromed rimed/black style and the pointers are slightly different as
> well as the markings. If you replace the tach I suggest you replace all the
> instruments as they will all look slightly different. That's if you want
> them to all look the same.
>
> Barry Schwartz
> Bschwartz@encad.com (San Diego)
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