Tony Zappa wrote:
>
> Wow, thanks to everyone who replied to my previous posting. I found I should
>have been more
> complete with my question:
>
> 1. Replaced the switch already
> 2. Touch the wire from the fuse box (which has power) to the wire
> from the lights (which, as far as I can tell, is unbroken) and the
> fuse pops
> 3. The parking lights work, and they share the same earth, so I'm
> fairly confident that's not it (although I am not an electrician and
> will work under correction)
> 4. I have sandpapered the contact points and see clean brass
>
> I can add that when I replaced the switch once already (with a cheap
> plastic one) the switch got so hot it melted the plastic and almost
> fried the wires (replaced them).
>
> Other than that, I'm still stumped. I'll keep working on it and let
> you all know. The amazing thing is, they DID work at one point, and
> I haven't changed anything (welcome to the wonderful world of LBCs, I
> guess!).
Tony
If they're getting that hot (to burn wires and switches) you are drawing
way too much current. Basicly theere are only two causes for this. a
short on the supply end or corrosion some where in the system. Try
checking your switch and all wires for resistance. If you get anything
over single digit ohms follow up in that direction. I found wires in
Lucas systems corroded internally. This is part of why trouble shooting
them is so difficult. Keep with it. I know it gets very frustrating.
Best of luck
Bill
78Spit
80Wedge
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