On Thu, 13 Mar 1997, Dean Mericas wrote:
> I am seeking some group wisdom here on my options regarding the
> engine in my TR4.
>
> I figure the following are no brainers:
> - Regrind crank to least oversize possible
Have the crank checked for cracks and shot peaned
> - Oversize main and rod bearings
> - Oil pump (as per recent thread)
good move, I might suggest the unit from British Frame and Engine
> - Front seal
> - Timing chain and tensioner
Check the chain and gears while you're at it... If the teeth are
worn (the tips of the teeth will be sharp if the gears are worn)
replace both the gears and the chain
> - Clutch assembly
> - Pilot bearing
> - Balance crank and clutch assembly
If you intend to balance the crank balance the pistons and rods
as well (no sense in going half way)
> - Replace any hoses, etc. that look questionable
Replace ALL the hoses (no sense in puttin old stuff back on a new
engine)
If your cam looks a bit pitted replace it or have it reground,
also look at the tappets see if they are worn or pitted, replace
as needed... Since we're in the valve train, look at the push
rods see if they are straight (test them by rolling them on a flat
surface like a plate of glass... If they are bent you'll hear it).
Check your rocker arm shaft for wear, replace if needed. If you
replace the shaft, the rocker arms have sleeves that will need to be
replaced and machined to fit the new shaft.
>
> I am also considering a 87 mm piston/liner set, but the additional
> $5-600 for parts is sobering, especially since the compression is
> apparently good.
If compression is good, just ridge ream and hone the bores (to break
the glaze) and replace the rings
>
> I noted some light pitting on one of the camshaft lobes. Should I
> assume that it will need to be replaced? What about the cam bearings?
They need to go too. Once installed the new ones need to be align
bored
>
> How about the rear oil seal conversion kit? It would be nice to
> reduce the seepage/drippage rate, but another $100 plus machine work
> will add to the financal pain.
If you KNOW the leak is coming from that source sure go ahead,
you can also just replace your old unit with a factory original...
>
> I appreciate any thoughts/comments/suggestions.
> ------------------------------------------------
> Dean Mericas
> 1965 TR4 (CT37089L)
> 1988 Saab 900S
> 1991 Saab 9000T
>
gpetrola@prairienet.org 1962 TR4 (CT4852L)
"That's not a leak... My car is just marking its territory!"
Greg Petrolati, Champaign, Illinois
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