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poly/nylatron

To: ingate@shiseis.com
Subject: poly/nylatron
From: rgb@exact.com
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 09:44:08 1997
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Either poly/nylatron is MUCH harder than the rubber, well actually
the rubber is fairly hard when new, but degrades to a mush after
several years.  This stuff is all under the car, so exposed to oil,
gas, road crude, etc.

The fact that brit cars seem to leak everything likely makes the
problem worse...

Both poly and nylatron will last forever.  So a poly replacement for
everything that doesn't rotate is perfect and fairly cheap.

Two items of note:

1.  not all poly/nylatron bushings are the same, some DO NOT have
    the metal inserts, so you're wearing right on the poly, this
    might be worse than the rubber for a short life, don't know,
    I only buy the brand name stuff to avoid this.

2.  Nylatron is nylon based stuff and as such has some self-lubing
    qualities.  I always pack/coat this stuff with all the synthetic
    lube I can get in there upon installation and have never had any
    noise from it.  There are a few other materials available for other
    cars, i.e. graphite, etc.

I was worried about the hinges breaking due to the stiffer bushings,
till I read about them using "brass" for competition years ago.  The
problem with brass was the lack of lube, wear, and vibration transmittal
to the body, not to mention the installation problems.  I suspect you
get more vibration transmitted to the frame, but I've never noticed it.
The feeling of having the rear wheels follow the car is amazing!

(thanks to Bob Kramer for forcing me to be NON-original on the bushings,
 one drive of his car eliminated ALL arguments I had about originality)

I now buy TRF HP129,HP130 and all BPNW TR6 poly pieces "except" bushings.

NOTE:  if there is anything bent in the shock tower region, you'll have
       problems installing the front ones.  The rear nylatron kit needs
       the non-cut washers drilled out one size, try all on the bolt BEFORE
       starting...

Roger

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