Hello Glenn, you wrote :
>I've read the posts that refer to the problem of removing the rear hub
>from the axle stub shaft to get at the seal for replacement.
>
>Restored my 71TR6 back in 91/92 and had the same problem.
>- one of the flanges almost fell off and the other would not
>come off regardless.
>- Tried to pull it off and bent a good Proto Hub Puller.
>- Hammered/heated (still no good)
>- Finally resorted to a torch and a major 50+ ton power press
>at work and the hub finally came off with the bearing and of
>course the seal destroyed.
>
>I'm in the process of doing the same to a 70 differential. Both hubs are
>stuck on the tapered shaft. I'm not looking for all the grief I went
>through the last time!
>
>The shop manual (Bentley) makes no mention of a press>
I can't say for sure, as I don't have my Bentley manual at hand, but I
do have the Haynes and Russek manuals. The Haynes (Ch.11, section 12)
calls for 3 tools, S.318 (a holder which mounts in a bench vice, to
hold the hub / axle assembly -- which you can live without) and the
hub separator tool itself, S.109A. This is the Churchill hydraulic
press that separates the hub flange from the tapered stub axle, and
those who have used it, including some listers here, say that it works
well, but that you need to be prepared for the loud, gun-shot noise
and tremendous thump to your workbench that happens when the hub finally
separates (hopefully -- apparently some never do, at least not without
breaking the hub itself, or bending the flange.) Bending the flange
is the most common problem, you're left with a scrap hub; you need
either a 4-jaw puller with support plate for the flange + torch,
according to the old Six TEch manual, or the Churchill tool, which is
what TRF and Moss use for their re-builds, I ASSUME. The third tool
mentioned by Haynes is a bearing extractor, for after the hub is sep-
arated, and I assume you can live without this one also.
By the way, the Russek manual just says, in 7.2.1, p.123, ..extract the
hub, using a suitable puller. Not much help there, IMHO.
The above is a synopsis of recent discussions on the rear hubs of IRS
cars. There seems to be no cheap or easy way out of separating these
hubs, due to the TONS of pressure normally required. If you're inter-
ested, I have not one, but two hubs with bent flanges, courtesy of
the dreaded DPO, who managed to pull two studs out of each, along
with bending the flanges, when he tried to separate them...might be
good anchors for your canoe, eh ?
>
>Has anyone removed the hub, seal plate, stub shaft with bearing as a
>unit and tried pulling the bearing (with a bearing splitter and a press
>or puller)? Looks possible per the manual.
>
>Any 4.11's or lockers out there for sale?
>
>Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated
>
>Glenn Franco
>
>71 TR6
>74 TR6 currently getting a frame off (early engine and drive train a
>real Heinz 57 car)
>
Good luckl
& best regards,
Tom Tweed
SW Ohio
'72 TRident 750 (basket case)
'75 TR-6 bare roller
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