my wrench (Mark Phelan VTR consultant) suggests doing hydraulics LAST as
then seals, etc. will dry out rather quickly if not exposed to fluid right
away.
just his $0.02 worth. Good luck
Ken Gano
kengano@advant.com
TR3A TS57756 (in pieces)
----------
> From: James H. Davis, Jr. <jhdavis6@juno.com>
> To: kbrown@trmx3.dot.ca.gov
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Rebuilding Hydraulics
> Date: Friday, January 17, 1997 12:28 AM
>
>
> On Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:07:29 -0800 Kenneth Brown
> <kbrown@trmx3.dot.ca.gov> writes:
> >While the temperature approaches freezing in my garage I would like
> >to do some
> >work in the comfort of my warm home, mainly rebuilding the hydraulics.
> >My
> >question to the list concerns whether there is any problem rebuilding
> >the brake
> >and clutch components now even though I don't plan on getting them
> >back on the
> >car for four months or so. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
> >
> >Ken Brown
> >TR250 hoping to get back on the road by summer
> Ken,
> Amazingly, the only parts of 38690 that worked perfectly (with no leaks)
> prior to restoration were the hydralics. While the car sat in various
> states of disassymbly for 2.5 yrs. I stored the brake & clutch m/c and
> clutch s/c in sealed plastic bags. Upon reassymbly, the only things that
> didn't work were, you guessed it, the hydralics ( and the water pump-you
> can't let it sit dry for extended periods I found out, but that's another
> story). I'd wait, but since mine may be an isolated incident, you may
> want to get other input.
> Hope this helps,
>
> Jim Davis
> CF38690UO
> CF37325U
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