Hello Robert, you asked :
>Can someone advise me on the correct replacement/tightening method for
>putting the front hubs back on to the stub axles of a TR6 1973. The
>factory manual says to tighten the slotted nut to 5 lbs, but my torque
>wrench doesn't go that low.
You tighten it `just barely snug', about like a spark plug, but a little
more than that if you have installed a new felt seal, which will com-
press some upon first installation. Slowly spin the wheel as you tighten,
to fully seat the bearings. This is assuming that you have just cleaned
and re-greased the bearing, by the way. Even the manuals can't agree
on the exact torque spec, Haynes says 5 lbs on one page, then 10 lbs on
the next (pages 192 and 195 in my '74, '78 edition). They even say to
back off the slotted nut one flat and then measure an end float of .003 to
.005", but how you'll do that with the felt seal compressed, I'll never
know.(p.192 torque specs).
>Do you tighten the slotted nut until the hub/ brake disc does not rotate,
>then slightly slacken off until it moves slowly, then insert cotter pin?
No. That would be way too tight, just snug up as above, back off one or
two flats, and insert the cotter pin. This should give you just minimal
end float on the bearing, i.e. not wobbly but not tight either, which
IMHO is just what you want. There's more info available on a modern
replacement seal, if you want to get away from oil-soaking and then
greasing the face of the felt one; it was published thru the 6-Pack
newsletter a few years ago, if you're interested I'll try to find it,
but for most fair-weather cars, the felt seal will last for years.
>
>Thanks
>
>Robert Carley
>
Good luck, and buy all the different manuals you can, they make good
cross-references and `second opinions'.
Best regards,
Tom Tweed
'72 Trident 750cc (basket case)
'75 TR-6 parts car (very little left)
various other Triumphs (sold)
|