Sorry to but in here, but I have a little experience that
I'd like to share on this subject.
I picked up a trick for replacing the upper main bearing
shells. There used to available a nifty little gadget called
roll out pins. These were molded aluminum pins that fit
into the oil holes on the crankshaft. You then turned the
crankshaft in the proper direction. The pin stuck out of
the hole just enough to catch the edge of the bearing
shell and rotated it out of the main saddle.
The only problem with these little nifties, was that they
never seemed to be the right angle for any of the jobs
that I did. The solution that I came up with was use a
cotter pin. Find one that will fit into the oil hole head
end first. Then bend the ends to match the angle of
the hole in the crank and trim the ends to the width of
the bearing surface.
Remember to rotate the crank so the pin contacts the
end of the bearing shell without the tang. These trick has
always worked for me.
Hope this helps,
Al Brenden
albrendn@premier1.net
----------
> From: Jack I Brooks <jibrooks@juno.com>
> To: johnhaynes@som-uky.campus.mci.net
> Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: TR3 Engine work
> Date: Saturday, December 28, 1996 8:05 PM
>
> Sam,
>
> Thanks for your response.
>
> I do have a few clarification questions for you.
>
> >There is a oil pressure relief valve on the filter head assy. The spring
> in this assembly may > need replacing. It also has an adjusting screw for
> adjusting pressure.
>
> I believe the spring to be OK as the oil pressure, cold, never goes too
> high, approx 72 psi.
> Could the spring/assy be bad? I removed and cleaned it, hoping there was
> something jamming it open. The spring is powerful. Am I missing
> something?
>
> >Usually low oil pressure means worn rod-main bearings. You are at the
> clearance limit on the bearings you checked.
>
> I know. I am a little nervous about just how hard it is to do the
> bearings with the crank in the car. I have gotten a lot of mixed mail
> about it. Everyone says it can be done, but it would be much easier if I
> pull the engine, something I can't do this year. The car is up on
> jackstands, so I have decent access. If the shells can be pushed through
> with all three mains loose it shouldn't be too much of a problem. I
> hadn't considered that the pressure on the upper shells would be gone
> once all three mains were removed.
>
> >If it were my engine, I would replace the main and rod bearings with
> >standard units with the crank in the engine and the engine in the car.
> >I did this to my car 15 yrs, l5,000 miles ago. This is an easy fix ,
> but I would
> >not expect more than 30,000 from it. Remove the main bearings and
> >the crank will be supported by the tranny and the timing chain. The
> upper bearing
> >shells can be rolled out by using the lower shell to start it. The
> front
> >bearing cap has a aluminium block between it and the oil pan that must
> >be removed. There are two screws that hold the cap to the front plate
> >that are easy to overlook. The downside to this fix is that it is
> difficult to
> >prevent leaks, but if anyone is fussy about oil drips, then you will not
> be
> >happy with a 50's car anyway.
>
> I am looking forward ten years or so until I can do a complete
> restoration. The car is in very good shape now. That is when the kids
> will be just old enough for a family project restoration. 30,000 miles
> is a lot more than I anticipate in ten years so that would be great. I
> live in NJ and the only way insurance was affordable was with a 2,500
> mile/year limitation..
>
> The front main has the gasket that cannot be replaced unless the crank
> is removed, correct? From what I have been told by others on the list, a
> good slug of silicone, kept away from any oilways, should work to
> prevent/limit drips. Also, have you found a better solution to the
> felt/shellac seals?
>
> BTW, I am a little fussy about oil drips. I actually got my Norton
> practically drip free after three years. When I bought it leaked almost
> as much oil as I burned gas. Silicone on one surface and mold release on
> the other allows for reasonable disassembly later on, while still
> providing a great seal. Obviously, it only adheres on one surface, but
> in these low/no pressure applications it works.
>
> > Re; thrust washers, My book shows ,004 -.006 play. Order std and
> >oversize to come up with the right combo. ,005 is available, maybe
> >others, try TRF. You my need to use the oversize on one side std on the
> other.
>
> You are right. spec is 4-6 thou. I didn't think about mixing oversized
> and standard thrust bearings; that is a great idea!
>
> > Check the end float by moving the crank untilled it seats agin the
> >thrust and check the gap on the opposite thrust with a feeler guage.
>
> That is just what I did. The Haynes manual said push the crank forward
> to measure the end float.
>
> >Put Vandervell bearings in it.
>
> Vandervells, that is also what I have heard.
>
> I appreciate you assistance. You are an original owner; I am a long time
> wanna bee, who finally did it! Although we were looking for TR6's, when
> we fell head over heels for the 3's.
>
> I believe from your comments the bearings will not be a major challenge.
> I would however, appreciate a little clarification on the above items,
> partially as a confidence builder.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Jack Brooks
> Hillsdale, New Jersey
> 1960 TR3-A TS69032L
> 1974 Norton Commando Roadster
>
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