At 10:05 AM 12/19/96 -0500, James Fowler wrote:
>Any suggestions on the conversion to wire wheels for a 1960 TR3A? I
>have a set of original wires that have been stored for 15 years in a barn.
> What parts are needed; what are the pit falls; what do I need to do to
>the wheels before they are installed?
Been there did that, redid that....
Rule #1 the conversion is only as good as your wheels and splines.
Check the splines on your storred wheels. The section of spline at the rear
should look new as it normally sits behind the hub spline. The spline
should look like a truncated equallateral triangle. If the spline comes to
a point, esp if the spline's appear to lean to the side, the hub is worn
out and needs to be replaced. Its cheaper to replace the entire wheel than
to have a hub relaced.
Take the wheels down to a place that can spin balance them and have them
checked for trueness. If the splines are good and the wheels are out of
true I recommend British Wire Wheels in Santa Cruz California. The do mail
order truing and are one of the best in the business.
Never put a worn wheel spline on a new hub unless you want a worn out hub
as soon as possible. I purchased "very good condition" used wheels & hubs
not knowing what to look for. Had a wobbily TR3 for a year or so and
purchased new hubs and wheels. Made a big difference on the highway.
Both Moss and TRF are having their winter sales so now is the best time to
get new hubs, wheels and wire wheel lug nuts. Stay with Dayton wheels.
When mounting the hubs, you need to cut down the lug studs. Otherwise they
rub against the wheel and the wheel will not sit correctly.
I installed a hub with its nuts; marked the place to cut; removed the hub;
ran a die down the stud; cut off excess stud with a die grinder, and ran
the die off the stud. I probably did it the hard way.
Be sure to liberally grease the splines when assembling the wheel on the
hub. Remove the wheels and regrease them about every six months or so.
TeriAnn
twakeman@scruznet.com
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