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Re: TR5 PI System

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR5 PI System
From: Egil Kvaleberg <egilk@sn.no>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 22:40:35 +0100 (MET)
Cc: british-cars@autox.team.net
On Sun, 3 Nov 1996, John W. Dean wrote:

> I don't have experience with the system on the TR5, but I have some
> experience with the very similar system used on Maserati 6 cylinder cars
> in the late fifties and sixties.  At least if my memory is right, the
> Triumph used the Lucas mechanical system, didn't it?

Yes. But being as early as late fifties, perhaps the Masers used the Mk.1
(same as used in F1 etc.), whereas the Triumphs used the Mk.2? Doesn't
sound as there were any big differences, though.

> In practice, I found the system to be very difficult to deal with.  Its
> proper operation depends upon some very precise mechanical parts, which
> must be calibrated using special equipment. 

My experience is quite to the contrary. Calibration of the metering unit
is based on an inlet vacuum versus. pump throw chart. I started out with a
sophisticated setup with a vacuum pump and various valves to calibrate it,
but eventually found out that the most convenient way to calibrate it was to
use:

        A vacuum gauge
        Sophisticated vacuum source (yours truly)
        Sophisticated vacuum valve (my tongue closing the tube end)
        Sophisticated pump throw gauge ;-) (a set of common feeler blades)

You really must have the Lucas repair book to get the chart, and to find out
what adjustments do what. But it is not very difficult, and the adjustment
seems to last almost infinitely.
        
Since the system relies on engine vacuum for metering, it depends on valve
timing etc. to be reasonable correct to work well.

> When the units wore out, though, as in most
> mechanical injection systems, they tended to fill the crankcase up with
> gasoline, and they ran very badly.

I've never ever heard of metering units wearing out, they are tough (and
very accurately made) devices. The common problem areas are:

    1.  The fuel pump wears out, causing problems with starting and
        overheating. I overhaul mine every 5 years (30000 miles) as
        preventive maintenance. A simple enough job which involves checking
        and/or changing the motor brushes, the bearings, the shaft seal
        and the pump end plates.
        Some fit Bosch replacement pumps, but their pressure is on the
        low side, which *might* cause performance problems (I have no
        experience with this).
        
    2.  The injectors start to dribble, caused by an internal seal
        going old and stiff. Other that that, the injectors seem to last
        forever. 

    3.  The two injectors connected to the metering unit housing using
        90 deg. banjos tend to get pieces of the banjo O-ring stuck in
        the valve. Easy enough to clean out, but seems to happen once
        every 2 years. I'm looking at a solution with a copper seal to
        fix the problem permanently.

    4.  The pressure regulator valve might get clogged, causing too high a
        pressure in the system. Will cause the pump to heat up, causing
        vapor locks. Should only be a problem for cars that are left
        standing for a long time.

    5.  Too high resistance in the pump electrical supply. Will cause pump
        overheating. (Why: because the surplus fuel will normally be
        returned to the tank via the regulator valve, when the pump capacity
        decreases, no surplus fuel hence no cooling). Rewiring with heavy
        cables and a relay is a good preventive step.

    6.  Vacuum leaks, causing erratic running (rich mix), esp. in low
        power region.

    7.  Wear in throttle body axle bearings, causing unstable tickover. It
        gets impossible to reliably adjust all cylinders for a correct
        flow at tickover.
        Late (with two tube across) throttle bodies are less critical
        in this respect compared to early ones (with one tube across).
        An external throttle linkage kit is available to help, but the
        standard late system works well enough if it is adjusted correctly
        and not worn out.
                        
   8.   Fuel leaks. I haven't had any problems, but the system DOES carry
        around 120 PSI, so do change the rubber and plastic parts of the
        piping every (say) 10-15 years.

   9.   The only problem I've seen with the metering unit is a little
        plastic bit connecting the vacuum membrane to the fuel curve
        breaking, causing full fuel metering regardless. Easy enough to
        diagnose and fix, although "limp-home" mode may cause some
        anti-social driving (only runs properly at wide open throttle ;-).

There seems to be a number of people that have problems with vapor locks
in the pump in hot weather. To remedy this, they fit a cooling coil
around the electric motor. This won't hurt, surely, but I have a
suspicion a pump being OK does not really need it.

Another popular myth about the PI is that it relies on lead for
lubrication of the metering unit. All fuel experts I have talked to says
that they can't understand this, because lead as found in gasoline would
only have a lubricating effect at elevated temperatures. And since the
Lucas manual also says nothing about this, I have been running unleaded
for a number of years now, with apparently no bad effects yet.

Compared to carbs, I find the system utterly logical and simple to
diagnose with only a few simple tools:

    a.  A 1/2 inch wrench to take loosen the injectors. Check the spray
        (out of doors!) while the engine is running at tickover.
    b.  A vacuum gauge to check for vacuum leaks and engine problems.
    c.  The Lucas manual. The Triumph repair book is not good enough.
    d.  A high pressure gauge (not really essential).
    e.  Common sense (essential).
         
> My opinion is that this injection system is way more trouble than it is
> worth,

YMMV, obviously. For me the immediate response (remember, the Triumph has
one throttle plate for each cylinder, not one common plate before the
plenum chamber as is usual) and the power leaves me with no choice. I've
had the PI on my 150 BHP daily driver for 10 years, and have never looked
back.

You would definitely want a TR5 cam with the PI system.

> In the case of a TR5, I'd bet that the cost of
> overhauling the distribution unit might be about half the value of the
> car.

Yes, it has cost me some $150 over these 10 years. Which is probably half the
value of my car, I'd guess ;-). 

If you don't want to do things yourself, reconditioned pumps and
calibrated metering units are available from the UK at approx #150 each.

> And a carburated Triumph runs fine, in my opinion.

Fine, but slow!

Egil
-- 
Email: egilk@sn.no  Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL:   http://home.sn.no/home/egilk/
URL:   http://home.sn.no/home/t2000.html


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