Yo;
As I recall, the innards of the TR6 master cylinder are held in place primarily
by the tippler valve
assembly, which is a small, light spring-loaded inlet valve on the top of the
mc unit, held in place by a
threaded sleeve with a hexagonal interior hole. To remove the valve, I used
the head of a bolt that fit the
hexagonal hole in the sleeve, double-nutted the bolt to have something to twist
with a wrench, and turned
the sleeve counterclockwise until it was unscrewed and out of the mc unit.
The tippler valve can then be
removed quite easily. It has a protrusion at its base which projects down into
the cylinder which prevents
the piston from coming out of the rear of the cylinder. When the above sleeve
is removed and tippler
valve taken out, the piston assembly can usually be extracted fairly easily,
although it may require a little
tapping with a small hammer on the side of the mc to get it to pop out (it is
spring loaded, but tends to
stick in there sometimes). Dont hammer away at
it, though. It should come out with only gentle
persuasion. Once the guts are out and rebuild kit is in hand, the rebuild is
more-or-less self-guiding as I
recall (there are a few headaches along the way). There have been a number of
posts here in the past
about cleaning up the interior of the cylinder wall, so you might want to check
the archives of this list for
that info. And, as I indicated in a recent post, be sure that when you replace
that little rubber O-ring at
the very front of the inter
ior assembly, get it installed with the correct side facing the front end of
the
inside of the mc. Otherwise, the system will never bleed properly (as I
learned). Hope this helps some.
Gary Morrow
72 TR6, 68 TR250 (here, there, everywhere)
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