> Seemingly minor to me, but, i have a single Stromberg (which I am
> hoping to ramp up to dual SU's - or something!) And whenever I check the
> dashpot on the carb, its empty, even if I fill it, and just drive around
> for a day or so
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Pretty common, every Stromberg I've ever owned (and I've had a bunch)
requires you to top them up. But it usually takes a coouple weeks. Funny
thing is the SU's that I've had on the Spitfire don't seem to ever require
topping up. Anyone care to elaborate on why, I can't seem to figure it out!
(Even the non-adjustable original style closed off, not bored through, carb
piston's on the 70 GT6 require topping up. Can't leak if there is no hole
bored through! -)
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> With that badly
> explained, my question becomes how difficult would it be to change drive
> lines to the more modern type (no, i dont have O/D)... Any ideas would be
> greatly appreciated.
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You could rebuild the strap style by simply making new straps out of good
spring steel the same thickness as the old ones, and reinstalling them as
the original. Take a decent "strap" off and use it as a pattern. There is
also a large "o"-ring inside the shaft which has probably disentegrated and
should be replaced. Thats the way I would go. Barring that you can replace
it with a different year, Just make sure the length is the same, mesured
from yoke to yoke (i'll avoid the pun here) - also if you use anything from
a MK3 and eariler, just make sure you replace the yoke flanges with the
larger ones from your 73 as these changed with the introduction of the MK4
model year. And if worse comes to worst you can always have the later style
driveshaft "resized", any good driveline shop can do this. I would stay
away from the "bean tin" style. Not that they are bad, just that the "bean
tin" is a constant velocity style (read not easily rebuildable) type of
drive shaft-
Barry Schwartz
Bschwartz@encad.com (work)
Bschwart@pacbell.net (home)
(San Diego)
70' Spitfire (under-going major surgery) , 72'-V6 Spitfire (daily driver)
70'GT6+
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