Robb Baugher writes:
>
>According to Thoroughbred & Classic Cars Online Price Guide at
>http://www.specialcar.com/priceguide/price_t.html it's worth about £9500
> or $14,725
>
>I have no idea how accurate this service is, but it was right on the
>money with my Stag.
British prices are _quite_ different than US prices (usually much
higher - by 50 to 100%). Some more unusual (in the US) cars may be similar
in price, like the Stag. (Though Stags seem to be overpriced; someone
locally is trying to sell his daily-driver stag for just under $10K - he used
to be trying to sell it for ~$7500 for years, with no buyers.)
Bruce A. Krobusek writes about my intermittent short:
>>The first time it blew, I replaced it with my spare, and it got me home, but
>>when I took a look it showed signs of heat, and (molten) solder had
>>dripped out of one end. The next (short) trip it survived, but this morning
>>it blew again.
>
>That sounds more like a very slight case of overload to me. If you had an
>honest-to-goodness short that fuse would blow immediately. That it is
>slow to do so makes it sound like too much of a load on the circuit. Especially
>since it tends to blow when you're using the brakes. Have you replaced /
>added any lights lately?
No, nor any other electrical changes. It isn't an static overload;
amp draws (motor off, measured on the ammeter) are normal looking (low),
including the brakes. It has the hallmarks of an intermittent short or
intermittent overload. The heating (without blowing) inbetween the two blows
may well have been short-duration shorts; enough to heat it but not quite
enough to blow it. Perhaps a wire is cutting itself on a sharp edge as it
bounces around.
Andrew Mace writes:
>...or is your brake light switch shorting itself out on occasion?
Seems like a possibility. I plan to do a visual on all the brake-
circuit wiring before trying anything again.
Kris Cotton writes:
>For my 2 cents worth is that you do not have a short ????? but you are
>drawing too much amperage for the fuse ie you say that there is molten metal
>in the fuse & melted plastic..
Actually, outside the fuse - solder flowed out of the metal cap at the
downstream end. No melted plastic.
>have you put in bigger /brighter globes or anything else that would draw
>more currant than the system was designed for ?
Nope. And after replacing the fuse, sitting still, the amp draws
all looked reasonable and it stayed cool.
>if you have a short the fuse will blow slow blow fuses only allow for an
>increased startup surge ie tv/video's that type of thing they do not "slow
>blow" if there is a short present.
Right. But an intermittent short looks a lot like a startup surge,
if it doesn't last too long.
TRIPHSTEVE@aol.com writes:
>I have received conflicting information as to whether the rocker panel below
>the chrome strip is painted body color or black. Some cars I have seen that
>are "unrestored" appear black. Others, body color. My commission number is
>CC59173 and was titled as a 1971, but was actually produced in late 1970.
I think they were black; mine are body color, but the body was
repainted (poorly). Note that they have this nobbley undercoating-type
finish below a certain point (the chrome strip I'm also missing?)
This might have changed over the years. Many (most?) cars will have
been repainted by now, so looking at one now isn't a good indicator.
--
Randell Jesup, Scala US R&D, Ex-Commodore-Amiga Engineer class of '94
Randell.Jesup@scala.com
Exon food: <offensive words no longer censored - thank you ACLU, EFF, etc>
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