JoeSimcoe@aol.com writes:
>Our last tune up was 7-8 months ago so decided to go through the following:
>
>Adjusted valves - set points - set timing (statically 12 BTDC, right on) -
>checked dwell - synchronized carburators at idle (825 RPM)
I hope that was "checked dwell; set timing", not the order you
mentioned it in. Changing the dwell (point gap) changes the timing.
>Problem - set high idle according to Bently - HOWEVER when I engage it the
>car stalls. Went ahead and extened the screws some thinking that it needed a
>higher setting. Same result, stall.
>I have taken a screw drive and lifted the pistons 1/4" per Bently and engine
>looses idle - indicating a lean mixture.
This is very imprecise.
>This might make sense (I guess) as more air is drawn through the engine
>stalls - except with the choke pulled the exhaust belches black smoke ? ? ? ?
Way too rich.
>PS I haven't started the car cold with the choke out - as it was warmed up
>to do everything else - I don't expect that this would make a difference.
Yes it will! The whole point of a choke is to richen the mixture to
compensate for a cold engine. The secondary effect is to bump the idle up to
avoid possible stalls at low idle. If the engine is warm, pulling the choke
_will_ stall it (or at least make it very unhappy).
It's even worse if your engine is a bit rich to start with - which it
may be, regardless of the "lift" check. Use Colortune or an HC meter.
Sean Johnson writes:
>However, the engine started getting HOT really quick, and I heard some
>popping back thru the carbs before the engine basically died. [why couldn't
Check the timing! Probably (way) too advanced.
>I'm going to follow the net advice and set the valve clearances before
>further tuning, but how am I going to turn the 1 3/4 inch pulley nut for
>advancing the engine? Will a large socket fit, or should I get a large
>wrench?
Put the car in 4th and move it forwards and back. Much easier.
Nickbk@aol.com writes;
><< Subj: RE: The Elusive TR6 Motor
> Are you the one who's looking for a motor? Guy here in NC is giving one
> away. E-mail me if you want to know more. John Middlesworth
> >>
>I've never been considered a lucky kind-o-guy, but come on !
>Two sides of one theory come to mind. The East Coast has a large Triumph
>Attracting monolith buried there, or I personally, am a Triumph repelling
>avatar ! Either way, this is getting ridiculous. I have gotten replies from 5
>people with a motor. Four of these are about as far away from me as you could
>possibly get and still be in the USA (I won't even count the Canadian
>responses) What happens to all the West Coast TR's ?
They're all either a) on the road, or b) in England. Mostly b).
Everyone _knows_ that cars don't rust in CA, so that's where all the english
arbitrageurs went looking for every marginally rebuildable wreck. You wouldn't
believe the piles of rust the English consider "eminently restorable"! (Even
by New England standards.)
In the east, there are a lot more rusted-out cars with usable
drivetrains, and people from other areas don't 'mine' the resources as deeply
here - they assume hunting is better in the West, etc. And they were right,
once.
Richard Jackson writes:
>>At this rate, there will be no cars or parts left in the U.S.! Undue
>>panic, or justified concern? You decide.
>
>Simple answer, don't scrap so many of the poor little things :-)
>Ocassionally, I see a picture in an English Classic mag of a U.S scrapyard with
>various TR's, Spit's, Jag's etc in it, that is something you'd NEVER see in
>England, maybe the odd Spitfire, but NEVER car's like TR's E-types etc. They
>just do not get scrapped anymore, broken for spares maybe, but the whole car
>never ends up in a scrapyard.
Not too many do any more (most of those are older), but a number do,
especially the rusty or badly accident-damaged ones. When I was a teenager
driving AH Sprites, I used to go to junkyards and scrounge random parts
regularily. (Of course, my car should have been there, given the massive
structural rust, 100mile/quart-of-oil engine, etc. Great fun.)
> There are various traders here that specialise in
>importing U.S cars for breaking(parting out), but alot of the time the cost is
>exhorbitant, ie, Spitfire bonnets cost around 300-350 pounds, then you have to
>change the wings or plate up the holes if you don't want marker lights, a NEW
>heritage bonnet is 'only' 500 pounds ready to fit and paint, whereas alot of
>the U.S stuff I've seen is covered in small (or large) dents, presumably from
>shipping. Another factor is aswell as availability, is cost, whereas you seem
>to pay around $1000 for a rough TR6, we would have to pay approx 2500
>pounds($3000+) for a very rotten English spec car.
As I said, the cars the English consider restorable boggles my mind.
I remember one they said wasn't, but would be good for parts: it looked like
the rough outline of a car in piles of rust and scraps of metal, with a barely
recognizable steering wheel/shaft, and 4 piles that might have been suspension
parts. A mild exaggeration, but only mild.
--
Randell Jesup, Scala US R&D, Ex-Commodore-Amiga Engineer class of '94
Randell.Jesup@scala.com
Exon food: <offensive words no longer censored - thank you ACLU, EFF, etc>
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