Sean writes:
>When I turn the switch to the "start" position, sometimes nothing
>happens.
>Or, if I hold it in "start" for a second, then try again, the car
>starts. At first I assumed this had something to do with the
>buzzer box being damaged,
>but I've replaced the box, and I'm beginning to doubt the ignition
>depended on that box anyways.
>I'm guessing now that the contacts in the ignition switch are
>dirty. Is there any way to clean the contacts? If always assumed
>that with anti theft switches that these things aren't
>accessible.
Sean....I'm holding one of these switches in my hand as I write
this, and I'd hafta' say it's a non-serviceable unit. Perhaps you
could pry it apart, but there's a risk of breaking the cast metal
tabs.
Also, getting to this point on a '75 Spit ignition switch is no
mean feat. You need to cut some kind of screwdriver slots in the
anti-theft housing bolts to take it apart. Bob Sykes would know
the details. :-)
Try this approach instead:
Pop the bonnet and connect a dc voltmeter across the white/red wire
on the starter solenoid and any *good* ground. Lay the voltmeter
on the windscreen so you can see the reading from inside the car.
Observe the reading as you hit the start key. Pay particular
attention when you get no cranking. If 12volts is there consistently,
then you may assume that the start switch, buzz box and starter
relay are all good.
This would point to a bad starter solenoid, starter motor or bad
wiring between these components.
If you sometimes *don't* get the 12volts, we need to work backwards
to the starter relay, buzz box etc. I'd definately leave the
ignition switch for last though. :-) BTW...there's a multipin
bullet connect for that switch under the dash that you can unplug
and clean up easily. Worth the effort.
Regards...Tom O'Malley
'74 Spit
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