Tom Tweed wrote:
> Fellow Motorheads,
> Indeed, why do both Haynes and Bentley have instructions to remove the
> half-shafts complete, after wiring them together?
> So why not loosen the wire on the accordion boot and just slip out the
> outer section ?
The reason for not doing this is to avoid dismantling, cleaning, and
re-assembling the slip joint and the accordion boot. Yes, if you are going to
disassemble and clean the slip joint anyway, there is really no point to
wiring the joint together. However, if the boot is opened, it is inevitable
that dirt or other road grime gets into the joint, since one of the half
shafts will be left entirely exposed, just waiting to pick up any dirt
particles that land there. (At least with all the dirt and junk on the bottom
of my car!) This unwanted gunk in the boot will aid in premature destruction
of an expensive TR6 part...
In order to properly clean the slip joint, it seems to me that both portions
of the half-shaft would need to be removed anyway. In this case, it would
probably be easier to disassemble the slip joint while on the car, to avoid
having to pull the whole half shaft through the trailing arm. (It's heavy,
and awkward, and bangs against everything...)
> ... The stone guard (inner U-joint) won't pass thru the hole in the
> swingarm, at least on the 250, anyway....
The inner u-joint rubber stone guard *will* pass through the trailing arm
casting. The trick is to pull it through ahead of the inbound u-joint for
removal, and turn it inside out for insertion. I just did this last night,
and it worked fine.
I did end up having a major adventure replacing the left rear outer u-joint --
I was very near to giving up on removing one of the pairs bearing caps from
the yoke. It turned out that when I finally did manage to get it apart (after
many, many, wallops with a big hammer on an appropriately sized drift, on top
of my 61# vise), I found that one of the four yokes had ground away *ALL* of
the needle bearings, and was starting to go to work on the bearing cap! I
couldn't believe that the needle bearings were 100% gone -- not even any dust
to show that they had ever been there!
> Careful with the hub mounting studs, they're in the aluminum swingarm.
If anybody has actually read this far, I've got a question about this -- when
removing the hub, two of the six nyloc nuts were more firmly attached to the
hub mounting stud than the stud was to the trailing arm. How is one supposed
to tighten down a stud -- apparently I must be needing to buy another tool!
--ken
'74 TR6
Kenneth B. Streeter | EMAIL: streeter@sanders.com
Sanders, PTP2-A001 |
PO Box 868 | Voice: (603) 885-9604
Nashua, NH 03061 | Fax: (603) 885-0631
|