>
>Tony, can you explain why and how the lip of the OIL <G> pan can "curl" when
>tightened to much ? How is it the stupid gasket with goop cannot seal it up,
>does it really take that much ?
>
>Also, how is it that two gaskets will do a better job. I can only find the
>gasket material type gasket, no cork ones. Any other ideas ?
>
>Also also, can you explain a little better how to hammer out the lip? Do you
>run the straight edge across the pan, or lenthwise. Exactly WHAT is the
>metal I have to pound on ??
>
>Thanks for your time !
>Pat Leask
>pleask@mailhost.wlc.com
>Victoria B.C.
>
>
>
Pat,
Judging from this post, you waited too long to get religious
When an oil pan is overtightened, it causes the holes to bend upward
toward the block. A Gasket will seldom fill in the "new" gaps so it leaks.
Sealants will work and fill in these new spaces, but we are all guilty
of being in too much of a hurry so we don't allow them to cure properly
and when you put oil or any kind of pressure behind it, it blows out the
sealants ability to seal.
Two gasket of the "rubberized" material variety may help by providing
the cushion necessary to fill the uneven surface created by overtightening.
I have used everything from a 1x4 board to a 500 lb. anvil to straighten
out oil pan holes.
If you use a 1x4, place the even sawed, smoothe end under the lip
(outside bottom) of the pan and with a hammer, lightly tap the area of
each oil pan hole until it is visibly even with the rest of the sealing
surface of the pan.
Spread a thin bead of sealant on the sealing surface of the pan, aand
apply the gasket, pressing down all the way around the pan and sort of
wiggling the gasket a bit to spread the sealant. Turn the pan over and
place it on a smooth even surface and press down in the center of the pan
lightly and let it SIT OVERNIGHT.
When you are ready to put the pan back on, clean each blot hole in the
bottom of the block with ...say carburetor cleaner.
Run a bead of sealant on top of yesterdays gasket and smear it as evenly
as possible. Hold the pan close enough to the block to get the bolts
started without actually touching the pan to the block until you have
several bolts in to hold the pan up.
Apply some sealant to the bolts before you thread them in. (This is why
you cleaned the holes in the block)
Once all the bolts are in place finger tight, snug them down in a criss-
cross fashion until they are all just snug.
When they are all snug, go back and torque them in the same criss-cross
fashion to I would guess 7-10 ft.lbs. No more or you'll bend the holes
out of shape again.
Now, let it sit overnight again to let the sealant cure.
Hopefully, we have stopped your leaky pan.
I have found that LBCs are not too expensive to maintain, they just take
a lot of TLC.
Are you ready to buy a Porsche?
Best Regards,
Tony
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