>
>Here in New Zealand Leaded Super has now been phased out, being replaced by
>Super Unleaded with a similar octane rating (96 cf. 95 in the old fuel).
>However, the new fuel is currently being investigated amidst reports that
>it may be causing rubber components in fuel systems to fail and may be
>responsible for several car fires in the pat few days. This morning I was
>faced with the dilemma of having to buy my first tank of unleaded for our
>Mk1 2L Vitesse. I chose to use the regular unleaded (91 octane) fuel, but
>now need some advice on what adjustments I need to make (preferably not
>involving a syphon tube!) to make the engine run satisfactorily.
>Presumably the iginition will need retarding (currently at 12 btdc static,
>with the UK spec 9:1? head). Can anyone estimate roughly by how much?
>Will the mixture need readjusting? Is there anything else? Once the
>ignition is retarded is the engine more likely to overheat in traffic?
>
>Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Regards, Pat Edwards
>
>
>Dept. of Chemistry
>Massey University
>Palmerston North
>New Zealand
>Ph: DDI ++64 (0)6 350 5165
>Fax: ++64 (0)6 350 5682
>
>
>
>
Pat,
I came up with an additive that made me feel a whole bunch better about
using unleaded fuels.
I did not take comfort in talking to my automotive machinist friend who
told me it was pretty much a waste of money.
I am building a 72TR6 engine and was considering hardened seats and
valves, but his comments were something to the effect that why waste the
money. You can run unleaded gas in a regular engine and the damage will
occurr. But, he added, it will take 60 to 70,000 miles to happen and by
that time you'd probably need a rebuild anyway.
Still. for my own ego, I use a lead substitue additive in a mixture of
Marvel Myster Oil, lacquer thinner and a shot of acetone. Makes me feel
like I'm doing the right thing.
Small consolation.
Regards,
Tony R.
"GT6s"
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