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Re:TR6 clutch woes

To: "Philip E. Barnes" <peb3@cornell.edu>, triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re:TR6 clutch woes
From: Glenn Franco <76644.2655@compuserve.com>
Date: 02 Mar 96 23:00:33 EST
On Thurs 2/29 Phil Barnes wrote (abbreviated)

>       Gentlemen:
>       I have what I believe to be a fix for the TR6 clutch release problem. 
>       What I have designed is an adjustable pushrod for the slave cylinder.
This
>       will fix what may be a design flaw in the TR6; the pushrod is either too
>       short or the slave cylinder is out of position.  Anyone
>       interested in a drawing of the part may E-mail me and request a copy; I
can
>       transmit a DXF version if you wish, or send via USPS or FAX. Any machine
>       shop can make the part for $20 or less.

>       Philip E. Barnes                    '71 TR6  CC61193L


On 11/5/95 I posted this message to the Triumphs list in response to Phil's
Clutch Problems>

>I have been watching this thread develop and a lot of good suggestions have
been listed to correct >the low clutch pedal engagement point. It doesn't appear
that Phil Barnes clutch problem has been >corrected. If it has I would like to
know what fixed it for my own edification. 

>After a full frame off restoration on my 71 TR6 the clutch exibited the same
problems. Low clutch >pedal engagement and in most cases  (it was so bad) gear
clash. This was after a total restoration >(almost) with a new Borg & Beck TRF
Clutch Kit.

>After following most of what was suggested (hydraulic rebuilds, broken pin,
slave cylinders >mispositioned and going through about a 1/2 gallon of brake
fluid bleeding the clutch) I determined >that the problem was due to lost motion
in the clutch mechanical linkages(pedal,clutch housing >pivots,etc). 

>Determined not to pull the Drivetrain again I came up with an adjustable clutch
push rod that was >adapted from the TR4. I ordered the fork end from Victoria
British, when it arrived I purchased a >5/16" SAE bolt from our local hardware.
Get a couple different lengths, cut off the head and round >the cut end to match
your original pushrod. Use a 5/16" SAE nut as a jam nut and you have a fully
>adjustable TR6 Clutch.

>This method of repair will adjust out any lost motion from your mechanical
linkage but its not a >good substitute for a severely worn system. Its been in
operation since 91 and running on Dot 3 >with no gear clash or any other
problems. I can set the engagement any place I want. You could also >fabricate a
similar assy. using ordinary hardware and some modification to the original push
rod. 

Update 3/1/96

After seeing this thread resurface again I checked my source for the fork end. I
comes from TR4 and from an older Victoria British catalog the part # is 4-740
(price $1.55) which was just the fork end (good on TR2-TR4) used with a hardware
store bolt and nut cost in the neighborhood of $2.00. Still
works today! See details above!                 
                ______     _
                      |___|_|_________________
                      |___|_\_\_\_\_\_________| round off               Just a
$2.00 part!
                ______|   |_|

        fork end        jam nut         threaded bolt

Just a note! All lost motion in my system has been eliminated clutch problem
fixed.
I also have new slave and clutch masters to put on this spring. I believe my
clutch woes began as a result of excessive crank end play. Need some advice on
thrust bearings. Please note my "Thrust bearing" post.

Good Luck 

Glenn

71 TR6
74 TR6
76 MGB



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