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RE: Help! TR-6 engine vibration

To: "'Milo V. Kral'" <kralmv@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>, "'TR Mailing List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Help! TR-6 engine vibration
From: "Riggs, Kevin (R. K)" <rkriggs@ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 1995 09:25:24 -0600
Encoding: 59 TEXT
Milo,

> I'm sure it an engine vibration because if I let the car out of gear but 
keep the
> engine revved at highway speeds,  the vibration goes away.

I think this proves that it is *not* an engine vibration.  I think this 
strongly suggests it's something in the driveline that shifts or deforms 
when it's under load.  Most likely, I'd say a u-joint.  But you can keep 
yourself awake at night wondering if it's a worn pilot bearing allowing the 
tranny input shaft to shift slightly out of alignment.  Maybe a flywheel 
bolt's coming loose.  It could certainly be the u-joint carrier coming 
loose from the transmission output shaft or from the differential input 
flange.  (Man, don't you reckon it would make a mess if one of those 
flanges ever just let go at speed?!)  I've had transmission mounts loosen 
up on me.  I've even heard of bellhousings loosening up (but that was on a 
sensible FIAT with only 4 bolts, not an anal-retentive TR with 4-dozen...). 
 Maybe the bailing wire you threw in the passenger seat worked its way down 
to where the unsecured transmission cover flops around the handbrake; then 
a loop of bailing wire got caught on the driveshaft and pulled the whole 
roll down, wrapping itself unevenly around the driveshaft...

> Could someone let me know what they think the most logical approach to
> solving the problem is,  or possible solutions?

Grab a handful of 1/2-inch and 9/16 spanners and crawl under the car
========================================================
Obligatory warning:
Always support your car on 4 sturdy jack-stands before you crawl under it. 
 Use only the strongest, best quality jack-stands on the market.  *Never* 
crawl under your car if it's only supported by a hydraulic, ratchet, or 
screw-jack, by cinder blocks, or by lumber.  *Always* test the stability of 
your jack points by shaking the car before you crawl underneath it.  If 
this makes you nervous, don't work on the bottom side of your car.  If this 
doesn't make you nervous, *definitely* don't work on the bottom side of 
your car.
========================================================
and make sure everything's bolted up tight.  If it's a j-joint that you 
don't feel/hear until 3500 rpm, you won't be able to see or feel any slop 
by examining the part on the car--but just for shits and grins, wiggle all 
the u-joints vigorously (you tested the jack stands, right?).  Any 
detectable play is unacceptable (OK, it's your car, so you define 
"acceptable"--but if you can see/feel/hear play with the car on the ground, 
you'll definitely feel/hear it on the road).

Anyway, if you haven't done the clutch and u-joints on your car in a while, 
just tell yourself you had it coming and spend a weekend replacing them 
all.  I'm fairly certain your problem's in the driveline, between the 
engine and differential, so I won't get imaginative about other places to 
look.

Or then again, of course, you could always just slow down...

Kevin Riggs
'72 TR6
rkriggs@ingr.com
Huntsville, AL



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