Milo,
> I tried to install a new lever shaft-fork-pinch bolt assy (parts
> from Moss), but the pinch bolt is MUCH too big for the hole in the shaft.
> It appears to be tapered, but I'm afraid to apply too much torque to the
> bolt for fear of breaking it.
I'm a little confused about what you're describing. Is this the attachment
of the cross-shaft to the fork that supports the throwout bearing? Or is it
the attachment of the cross shaft to the lever that extends outside the
bellhousing to the slave-cylinder push-rod? I assume you mean the fork that
supports the throwout bearing.
It sounds like you received the wrong parts to me. I have only worked with
the original assembly in my '72 TR6's bellhousing, but the pieces could
easily be assembled by hand, and spanners were only needed to reach the
correct torque.
If you are reusing your old fork, is it possible that a piece of the old
tapered bolt is still lodged in the fork? This has happened to me. I found
it necessary to drill through the webbing of the fork and drive out the
remains of the old tapered bolt. I have heard that this is a common
problem. But, from your description, it sounds like the tapered bolt itself
is too large a diameter to fit in the cros-shaft; is this correct? I've
never experienced this problem.
> Is it possible that the pinch bolt is supposed to deform the shaft
> to sort of make the fork an interference fit on the shaft?
I don't think so.
> Or does the bolt itself take all the load when the clutch pedal is
depressed?
Yes, I believe it does. The tapered fit should ensure that the cross-shaft
is pre-loaded and that the fork and pin never rotate relative to the
cross-shaft. But I believe any deformation is minor, and it is all in the
tapered pin.
> Do I need to machine the hole in the shaft to fit the pin?
Absolutely not.
> Any thoughts on modifications?
I would return the parts to Moss and order them from TRF. Best of luck,
whatever you decide, and please do let us know the results.
Kevin Riggs
'72 TR6
rkriggs@ingr.com
Huntsville, AL
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