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Dash Vaneer; Just my .02

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Dash Vaneer; Just my .02
From: davcla@ix.netcom.com (David Clark)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 10:41:13 -0700
Hi all,

Just a few pointers/sugestions on the dash info.

I redid the dash in my spit about two years ago and have had no 
problems since.  

First of all, I reused me original dash but sanded the damaged vaneer 
dowm to the next crossbanding.  After making sure it was relatively 
smooth I onrolled my veneer flat on a clean surface.  Do not worry 
about cutting or measuring the vaneer at this time.  I applied WELD 
WOOD (an contact adhesive by Elmers I think) to both contact surfaces.  
Wait 15 to 20 minutes until the adhesive sets and then lay your dash 
parts across the vaneer in a line the vey they would appear on the dash 
so when you go to install in the grain will be straight and uniform 
from one side to the other.  After you get it all lined up, place a 
board across all of the pieces and put as much weight needed to 
compress the parts together as needed.

After they are done drying,  cut them apart and trim as nessasary.  
Next you want to LIGHTLY sand the vaneer,  I can't stress LIGHTLY 
enough.  Apply the stain of your choice.  After the stain has dried you 
want to sand LIGHTLY again to smooth any of the grain that was raised 
during staining. Then apply a coat of sanding sealer to all surfaces of 
the dash.  After it has dried lightly sand and apply your finish coat 
of a sheen of your choice.  I opted for a marine urathene vs a varnish 
because it resists the UV's better and It won't yellow.  Apply as many 
coats as you like to get the desired results.

I have had mine for 2 years and have not had any any problems at all.

just a hint:  Make of a couple of extrat pieces  of 2" x2" square to 
practice on befor you do you dash.  You may want to try spray vs brush, 
 urethane vs varnish etc...  Do what works best for you.

BTW  I would strongly urge that you stay away from the solid dash.  
when it is mounted You will get uneven amounts of moisture on both 
sides of the wood.  No matter how well it it sealed,  it will want to 
bow or warp.  A good grade plywood due to the way it is crosbanded 
together should resist the warping.  It Wants to warp but the the 
opposing forces tend to not allow that to happen.

Well, gotto go.

Sorry so sloppy, I tried to squeeze this in at lunch.

David Clark

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