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Re: Old fuel tank

To: Greg Ridge <gridge@nando.net>
Subject: Re: Old fuel tank
From: Michael Burdick <mburdick@netserv.unmc.edu>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 1995 13:50:00 -0500 (CDT)
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
On Sat, 17 Jun 1995, Greg Ridge wrote:

> As I progress on restoring my '72 Spit MkIV, I've run into something of an
> unexpected problem.  My little dinky gas tank has me stumped.  The thing
> looks great from the outside, but has a ton of rust INSIDE it.  (Maybe
> 'cause the PO let it sit for 10 years). I have tried shaking it out, I have
> tried washing it out with water, all to no avail.  

Greg,

I haven't actually gotten around to doing this to my tank, but I have 
thought about it some and this is what I plan on doing:  After washing it 
out thoroughly with water, put a handful of nails (count them first!) in 
the tank with a few gallons of water and shake the tank vigorously.  Dump 
out the water and repeat until you are satisfied with the clarity of the 
water that is coming out.  Remove the nails and let the tank dry.  Treat 
the tank with one of the many tank coatings available.  I plan to use one 
from the Bill Hirsch company in NJ (1800-828-2061).  I have heard good 
things about their product - they have an alcohol resistant version that 
goes for $19.00/qt.  It does not require any etching before treatment.  
In fact, the literature says that NO preparation is needed at all but I 
would be a bit nervous applying it over severe rust, thus the nail 
treatment.  Other treatments require etching before applying the 
coating.  Vendors selling these coatings usually advertise an etching 
solution too.

I have heard of people taking tanks to radiator shops to be boiled out 
before sealing, but I called a couple of shops a while back that said 
they don't handle gas tanks - thus the nail treatment.  I have also heard 
of people using a length of chain rather than nails for removing rust.  
It seems to me that the sharp edges on the nails would make the process 
go a little quicker, although the chain would be easier to get out at the  
end.
 
> The main problem is that the filler neck is not flush with the top of the
> inside of the tank and the rust is unable to be shaken out or removed in any
> other way.  Any suggestions out there?

How about a wet/dry shop vac?

> Is the liner stuff likely to foul any fuel level sensors or orifices or
> anything else inside the tank?

Remove your sender and pick up tube before you start this process.  
Before the coating sets up, clean the openings for these pieces.

> Greg Ridge
> Southern Pines, NC
> 72 Spit

Are you in the Triumph Club of the Carolinas?  We joined when we lived in 
Durham and are still members, mainly to get the great newsletter put 
together every month by Scion Jamie Palmer.

Hope this helps,
Mike
'70 Spit, '75 Spit. '76 Spit, '64 TR4 (x2)

PS.  I have treated an unrusted tank with the coating sold by Eastwood.  
It has been three years now and seems to be holding up fine, even with 
the use of ethanol blended gasoline.  FWIW.  It is sold with an etching 
solution BTW.

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