Greg Meboe writes:
> 3 Things come to mind. Worn throttle shaft bushings $$, Incorrect needle
> mixture adjustment, Incorrect adjustment of by-pass valve or bad by-pass
> diaphragm. I'd bet on a combination of all 3.
One more thing it could be is an incorrect float level. Actually, the
needle adjustments are for "fine" tuning. If it's really running way
lean, the floats may need to be re-set, assuming there isn't a vacuum
leak.
> > Unfortunately I seem unable to do anything about it. Turning the needle
> > adjustment using the allen-wrench carb adjusting tool seems to do nothing
> > for me. In fact, I pulled the piston out of one of the carbs and tried
If you have turned the needle too far, it will disengage from the
screw, and there it can stay. The only way to get this sucker to
start in the threads is to remove the piston, lightly push the needle
up and let the threads catch while turning the allen key. Then you
should be able to see the needle go up and down, as you previously
attempted.
> > Also, a question regarding the direction in which I should turn to richen
> > the mixture. I would have thought I should be unscrewing (turning
Remember this:
Right == Richer
Left == Leaner
You'll never forget now!
> the purpose of the valve is to allow incoming air to by-pass the throttle
> butterfly. New diaphragms are supplied with rebuild kits, and adjustment
> of the valve is pretty straightforward.
The bently manual has the best writeup on how to set these correctly
for idle. Many TR's won't idle till these are set right.
> I suppose there's always the possiblity of a general vacuum leak. Spray
> starting fluid, carb cleaner, or an unlit propane torch around the
An UNLIT torch? That explains what I was doing wrong... :-) :-) :-)
Cheers,
-Scotty
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