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I believe it was Tom Hall, who enclosed the valve mechanism in the =
heater core area. I did this using a Honda valve with a couple of tricks =
for all the connections. It has worked great since 1990 with no leaks.
Since it's a Honda valve=0D, it actually works as opposed to slow leaks =
in the Sunbeam valve, which never really shuts off.
Of course it's not stock, but I always thought the heater valve looked =
like," oh we forgot something=E2=80=9D, and was just plain ugly to me.
I have photos and an article.
> On Mar 28, 2022, at 8:57 PM, Theo Smit via Tigers =
<tigers@autox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> The main worry, as regards cooling system pressure, is the end tanks =
on the heater core. Your radiator will be more than happy at anything =
the rest of the system can handle.
>=20
> Griffin recommends a 16 to 18 pound cap maximum.
>=20
> Cheers,
> Theo
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2022 6:17:10 PM
> Subject: [Tigers] Heater control valve
>=20
> Hello All
>=20
> With a aluminum radiator, what should the pounds of the cap should be =
on the overflow tank? I have had a 13 pound cap on the overflow tank =
and have gone through 3 heater control values in 5700 miles and they =
all leak.
>=20
> So now I am thinking about a 90 degrees manual valve with a very short =
handle that would fit in the stock location as the heater control valve =
utilizing the bracket of the heater control valve that would allow me =
to bleed all air from the motor at the highest point, which I believe is =
the heater core,. The idea is try and and retain as close to possible =
the stock correct look, be able to bleed any air when refilling the =
radiator and have the ability to manually turn on the heater once to =
twice a year as I live in a very moderate environment and drive the car =
year round.
>=20
> Any ideas as to a part number or manufacture that would meet these =
requirements or any other ideas?
>=20
> Thanks
>=20
> Joel Martin
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> tigers@autox.team.net
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca>
> _______________________________________________
>=20
>=20
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>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
believe it was Tom Hall, who enclosed the valve mechanism in the heater =
core area. I did this using a Honda valve with a couple of tricks for =
all the connections. It has worked great since 1990 with no =
leaks.<div class=3D"">Since it's a Honda valve=0D, it actually works as =
opposed to slow leaks in the Sunbeam valve, which never really shuts =
off.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Of course it's =
not stock, but I always thought the heater valve looked like," oh we =
forgot something=E2=80=9D, and was just plain ugly to me.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I have photos and an =
article.<br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""></div><div><br =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Mar =
28, 2022, at 8:57 PM, Theo Smit via Tigers <<a =
href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; =
class=3D"">tigers@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><meta =
charset=3D"UTF-8" class=3D""><div style=3D"font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 10pt;" class=3D""><div class=3D"">The main worry, as regards =
cooling system pressure, is the end tanks on the heater core. Your =
radiator will be more than happy at anything the rest of the system can =
handle.</div><div class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Griffin recommends a 16 to 18 pound cap =
maximum.</div><div class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Cheers,</div><div =
class=3D"">Theo</div><div class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1" =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><hr id=3D"zwchr" =
data-marker=3D"__DIVIDER__" class=3D""><div data-marker=3D"__HEADERS__" =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">From:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span></b>"tigers" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; =
class=3D"">tigers@autox.team.net</a>><br class=3D""><b =
class=3D"">To:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span></b>"tigers" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; =
class=3D"">tigers@autox.team.net</a>><br class=3D""><b =
class=3D"">Sent:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span></b>Monday, March 28, 2022 =
6:17:10 PM<br class=3D""><b class=3D"">Subject:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span></b>[Tigers] Heater control =
valve<br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
data-marker=3D"__QUOTED_TEXT__" class=3D""><div class=3D"yahoo-style-wrap"=
style=3D"font-family: garamond, "new york", times, serif; =
font-size: 16px;"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">Hello All</div><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"">With a aluminum radiator, what should the pounds of the cap =
should be on the overflow tank? I have had a 13 pound cap on the =
overflow tank and have gone through 3 heater control values in =
5700 miles and they all leak.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">So now I am thinking about =
a 90 degrees manual valve with a very short handle that would fit in the =
stock location as the heater control valve utilizing the bracket of the =
heater control valve that would allow me to bleed all air from the =
motor at the highest point, which I believe is the heater core,. The =
idea is try and and retain as close to possible the stock correct look, =
be able to bleed any air when refilling the radiator and have the =
ability to manually turn on the heater once to twice a year as I live in =
a very moderate environment and drive the car year round.</div><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"">Any ideas as to a part number or manufacture that would meet =
these requirements or any other ideas?</div><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"">Thanks</div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">Joel Martin<br =
class=3D""></div></div><br =
class=3D"">_______________________________________________<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; =
class=3D"">tigers@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Donate: =
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